Cartier Tank Basculante Review: The Other Reversible Rectangle Watch

The Cartier Tank is among the most iconic and enduring designs in today’s horological landscape. The brand’s no-frills design, inspired by military Renault FT-17 tanks of WWI, not only shares centre stage with another innovator of the rectangular watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (more on that later), but it has reacted well to several significant updates, surviving modification after modification without ever losing an ounce of its integrity or charm.  One example is the Cartier Tank Busculante.

Article by Nina Scally

[toc-section heading="Some Context"]

[text-media heading="" text="Loved equally by men and women worldwide, the Tank has a fascinating history. It was born into a colossal legacy and was required to follow in the footsteps of the revolutionary Santos – an aviation watch with an unmistakable presence (big boots to fill). The Santos was the first true modern wristwatch of its time and had already set an impossibly high bar. Emerging from its square-shaped shadow, however, the Tank faced a monumental challenge." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Jackie-Kennedy-watch-2.jpg" caption=""]

[image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-Featured-Sothebys.jpg" caption="Photo by Sotheby's"] Against all odds, it became the definitive dress watch of its era. Its slim profile and perfectly blended proportions enabled it to slip neatly under the cuff of a shirt, introducing watch wearers to a radical new concept that challenged the norms and ideals of the conventional round watch. Some of the Tank’s most popular variations include the Must de Cartier (1977), the Tank Américaine (1989), the Française (1995), the Solo (2004), and the Tank MC (2013). However, before all of those came the Cartier Tank Basculante, which arrived in 1932, just a year after the release of the famed Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Of all the iterations that came before it, the Basculante’s complicated “cabriolet” system, which allowed the watch case to pivot inside a rotating cradle, made it the most visually and technically impressive by a country mile. 

[toc-section heading="Cartier Tank History"]

[text-media heading="" text="Against the backdrop of 1917, when virtually all mechanical innovation was dedicated to the ongoing military necessities of WWI, the appearance of a purely aesthetic timepiece was deeply improbable. However, Cartier had other, more visionary plans, unveiling an astonishing piece of horological innovation that was entirely distinct from wartime necessities. The Cartier Tank was a bold and surprising vision of post-war elegance." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Louis-Cartier-2_924693a6-0a47-4bdb-a0ec-33c8aec644bb.jpg" caption="" media="left"] It courageously diverged from the established round watch, featuring an architecture with integrated parallel sidebars, known as brancards. Crisp black Roman numerals had also been combined with a creamy white dial to offset the strong geometric lines of the case. The brancards running parallel along the case represented the tracks of the Tank and framed a chermin de fer minutes ring on the dial.These features saw their first moment of fame when, in 1926, the Cartier Tank was worn on the wrist of actor Rudolph Valentino during the filming for “The Son of Sheik”.  The actor loved the design of the Tank so much that he refused to take it off. A few years before that, however, Cartier released the Tank Cintree, a slimmed-down and more elongated version of the Tank with a curved case that followed the contour of the wrist. 

[text-media heading="" text="In 1977, Cartier released an affordable version of the Tank to offset the damage created by Japanese watches flooding the market during the Quartz Crisis. Rather than featuring gold or platinum cases, the Must de Cartier’s case was crafted from vermeil (sterling silver coated in gold) and ran on an ETA-based mechanical movement or quartz. Void of the Roman numerals and minute track, these models looked markedly different from previous releases. In 1989, Cartier released the Tank Américaine, featuring a dramatically elongated and curved case that extended the already popular Cintree design, albeit with a flat caseback." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Louis-7.jpg" caption="The contemporary Tank Louis" media= "right"] The brand later extended its yellow gold-only offering, releasing the Américaine in other metals as well as chronograph versions. The Tank Française, which launched in 1995, was altogether sportier thanks to its chain-like bracelet, whilst the Tank Anglaise looked even beefier with its chunkier, curvier brancards and an integrated winding crown on the right-hand side. A new entry-level version entered the scene in 2004 when Cartier released the Tank Solo with a flatter but thicker case. To keep prices down, the watch was initially offered in stainless steel and powered by a quartz movement. In 2013, the French watchmaker released the MC, which took its name from “Manufacture Cartier”, signifying its in-house movement. The brand equipped the watch with a sapphire caseback, showcasing the Calibre 1904 MC through its window. Alongside the Tank’s archetypal sword-shaped hands was a sub-dial that displayed the running seconds. 

[toc-section heading="The Cartier Basculante"][image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-Sothebys.jpg" caption="Photo by Sotheby's"]Now, rewind a little to the year 1932. Shortly after the release of the Tank Cintree, Cartier released another creative spin on the Tank. It featured a reversible case that protected the delicate crystal during sports or other active pursuits. Sound familiar? Indeed, the case of the Basculante was produced by the same company that made the Reverso. Unlike the Reverso, however, which was designed with a left-to-right swivel, Cartier’s approach was vertical. The inner case of the Basculante sat inside a framework that could pivot on two arms, allowing you to flip the watch lengthways and lock it into place. The 1930s witnessed a significant surge in recreational sports, as activities such as tennis, polo, and golf became immensely fashionable among the elite. Since one's luxury wristwatch needed to remain on during these physically demanding pastimes, a timepiece specifically engineered to withstand impacts and protect the delicate crystal quickly became a highly desirable necessity. Early models even featured a crown at 12 o’clock, protecting it from damage during sports. 

Even more interesting is that thanks to the model’s cradle-like flipping mechanism, it can be easily positioned face-up, face-down (for protection), or vertically upright, transforming effortlessly into a highly functional bedside or desk clock. The story deepens with a fascinating twist: the patent for the Basculante's ingenious flipping mechanism was actually a collaboration supplied by Le Coultre, César de Trey, and Jaeger. This exclusive arrangement further cemented the intense competition between two of the world's most legendary watchmakers, both of whom were vying to champion the rectangular, reversible watch case during the 1930s.

[toc-section heading="Notable Tank Basculante Models"]

[text-media heading="" text="While the original Cartier Tank Basculante of 1932 addressed the needs of those seeking a protective sports watch, its history is marked by a stunning, albeit complex, series of revivals and references. The Basculante’s charm is perhaps most notable in the company’s earliest releases. While they date back to 1932, the Cartier Cabriolet was produced for several decades after, with an example from the 1970s seen here." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Cabriolet-1970s-Sothebys.jpg" caption="Photo by Sotheby's" media="left"] 

[image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-1625-Christies.jpg" caption="A Basculante Ref. 1625/Photo by Christie's"] To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Cartier issued an exclusive Basculante Ref. 1625 model in 1997, limited to only 15 pieces. Though it featured traditional textbook Tank features, a notable degree of finishing had been carried out on its 18k yellow gold case (vertical brushing and high polishing), including delicate perlage on the internal framework. The horizontal flipping system was subtly marked by a rare ruby red cabochon integrated into the case structure, replacing the traditional blue sapphire. The dial was archetypal yet refined, featuring thermally blued épée hands sweeping over a captivating two-tone silver guilloché pattern. Lastly, Cartier equipped this limited edition version with the manual-winding Cartier 40P Caliber, featuring gold, fully decorated, and engraved bridges, showcased through a sapphire exhibition caseback and accompanied by more of the repeated guilloché pattern seen on the dial. [image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-CPCP-2391-SSong.jpg" caption="A Basculante CPCP Ref. 2391/Photo by SSong Watches"] Cartier periodically revisited the Basculante throughout its Collection Privée Cartier Paris era. These sought-after versions were limited runs that emphasized traditional hand-finished dials and precious metals. One example is reference 2391, which was released as part of a limited-edition 365-piece production. Measuring 26mm in diameter, its straight lines and rounded corners were accompanied by a 12 o’clock crown below a blue Cartier cabochon. The blued spade-style hands and silver guilloché dial are reminiscent of designs from the early 20th century, while the bold painted Roman numerals and inner railway minute track secrete the signature Cartier style.  

[text-media heading="" text="Around the turn of the millennium, Cartier issued references like the 2390. It was often described in auction houses as the Millennium Basculante, as it conveyed a modernized concept with a contemporary case size and movement to boot. Still, it kept the innovative flip mechanism in play and was typically powered by a manual-winding movement, which sat inside a stainless steel case measuring 25mm in diameter. The steel case of the Millennium Basculante made it ideal for daily wearing. Perhaps this model best represents the Basculante’s transition from a niche vintage timepiece to an everyday collectible." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-millennium-2390.jpg" caption="The Millennium Edition 2390" media= "right"][image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-2405-Christies.jpg" caption="A quartz Basculante/Photo by Christie's"] Cartier didn’t restrict the Basculante to manual movements alone. During the 1990s and into the 2000s, the line expanded to accommodate quartz movements, as seen in examples like the reference 2405. These options expanded the Basculante's appeal. They were lighter, less fussy, and often more affordable. The reversible case still performed its original duty, but the quartz Basculante was designed for those seeking convenience. For buyers who want low maintenance but still appreciate the character of this reversible Tank design, the Basculante is an affordable option that can still be found on the pre-owned market today. While the Basculante isn't made anymore (for now, at least) you can learn more about the Tank over at cartier.com