Breguet Updates Marine Collection With More Nautical Style

Breguet has today unveiled new versions of its Marine 5517 and Chronographe 5527, giving both watches a noticeably different face. Their dials now feature the brand’s namesake numerals and the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché pattern, introduced for the maison’s 250th anniversary in 2025. The 5527 also drops its chronograph-hour counter, leaving two registers and moving the date to 6 o’clock.

The Marine has long drawn on brand founder Abraham-Louis Breguet’s appointment as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815, and the marine chronometers he made in the years that followed. The new dials bring more of his design language to the collection. The watches retain the Marine’s familiar case proportions and come in white gold, rose gold, or titanium, each on a matching metal bracelet or a rubber strap whose texture echoes the new dial pattern.

A New Pattern for the Marine

The “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché pattern is named for the Paris address where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop and made marine chronometers. Its winding lines draw on the outlines of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis, and the movement of the Seine around them. Breguet introduced the pattern for its 250th anniversary last year, and its wave-like lines feel right at home on the Marine.

Each dial starts with an 18k gold base, engraved by hand with the guilloché pattern, and then treated and lacquered for color and depth. An applied, cursive Breguet logo sits at 12 o’clock, while distinctive Breguet numerals occupy the dial’s outer edge. Previous Marine watches also had guilloché dials, but the new pattern and numerals give these models a more recognizable character that is distinctly Breguet.

Other details carry through the maritime theme. The tip of the 5517’s seconds hand and the 5527’s chronograph hand form a “B,” referring to the Bravo maritime signal flag. The crown guards suggest waves, and the movement’s gold winding rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, takes its shape from a ship’s rudder. The rubber straps repeat the dial pattern.

Breguet Marine 5517

The 5517 keeps the Marine’s 40mm case, with a round bezel set against broad, angular lugs and a fluted caseband. The wave-shaped crown guards add another recognizable detail without making the watch look like a conventional dive watch. It measures 11.5mm thick and 47.7mm from lug to lug, with a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance across the white-gold, rose-gold, and titanium versions.

On the dial, the date moves from 3 to 6 o’clock, bringing it directly below the hands. The white-gold watch has an ice-blue dial with blued numerals and hands, while the rose-gold version comes with a black dial. The titanium version pairs blue with rose-gold numerals and hands, giving it the strongest color contrast of the three. Without counters interrupting the center, the 5517 gives the Quai de l’Horloge pattern plenty of room to show.

Inside, the self-winding Caliber 777A runs at 4 Hz and offers a 55-hour power reserve. Its gold, rudder-shaped rotor is visible through the sapphire caseback. 

Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527

The case of the Marine 5527 has a larger, more technical look than that of the 5517. At 42.3mm across, 13.9mm thick, and 50.7mm from lug to lug, it has a clear presence on the wrist, with chronograph pushers flanking its guarded crown. The angular lugs and fluted caseband remain from the last generation, as do the screw-down crown and 100-meter water-resistance rating.

Like the 5517, the dial sees most of the updates. Earlier versions had counters for chronograph minutes, elapsed hours, and running seconds, with the date between 4 and 5 o’clock. The new Marine Chronographe places a 30-minute counter at 3, small seconds at 9, and the date at 6. Removing the hour counter gives the Quai de l’Horloge pattern more room and makes the remaining displays easier to pick out. White- and rose-gold versions have blue-gradient dials, while the titanium model comes in gray gradient. Each is offered on patterned rubber or a bracelet matching the case.

The central hand measures chronograph seconds, and the flyback function lets the wearer reset and restart a running chronograph with one press. Inside, the self-winding Caliber 582QA runs at 4 Hz and offers a 48-hour power reserve. Its gold, rudder-shaped rotor is visible through the sapphire caseback.

Prices range from $26,400 (titanium on rubber) to $80,300 (rose or white gold on bracelet) for the 5517 models and from $33,000 to $93,900 for the 5527 chronographs. More info on breguet.com.