Watches Of The SAS: What British Special Forces Pilots Actually Wear

It’s easy to think of watches as falling purely within the accessory realm, valued for their aesthetic and their finish detail. Sure, they fulfill a practical utility by telling the time, but that could be considered a redundant byproduct these days, as most of us are rarely outside of reach of any number of devices that provide the same utility. How watches serve their purpose today is very different from how they were used in the past. While much of that is out of necessity for the sake of self-preservation, the humble, purpose- built tool watch carries a deep history of use as just that, a vital tool used by servicemen and women. The stories that these watches tell serve as a reminder of the role watches once played, and connect with a new generation of enthusiasts. 

Every military across the globe has a history of using specialized tools in their endeavors, and watches have been a big part of that kit — from UDT divers and their dive watches, to pilots relying on their wrist-bound timers to calculate fuel flow rates. These watches enjoy an enviable lore that inspires many of the designs we see today from brands large and small. One particular outfit known for its use of spec-built watches is the British Special Air Service, or the SAS. While much of the information about the SAS is highly classified, we do know a thing or two about the watches these specialized service members have employed throughout the years. 

[toc-section heading="A (Brief) History of SAS"]

Photo: National Army Museum

The British Special Air Services was formed as a regiment in 1941, as Britain itself was being pulled further into World War II’s opening stages. These individuals would play a highly prescriptive role in the conflict across a multitude of disciplines, and their successes would lead to eventual reconstitution as a corps of the British Army in 1950 after a brief dispersion. Postwar activities would see the formation of a new kind of SAS regiment take shape, and ultimately be put to use in conflicts from the Korean War to Afghanistan, the latter following the September 11th attacks in New York. 

Today, the SAS fills a multitude of roles within the British Army, and collectively fall under the operational command of the Director Special Forces (DSF). Any granular level of detail about SAS activities is difficult to come by, naturally, but we do know some of the tools with which they operate. 

[toc-section heading="The Watches of the SAS"]

Watches used by the SAS fall into two different categories: those issued to members and those owned and worn by individuals. Regardless of which camp the watches fall within, they generally meet a similar criteria. Those key characteristics are surprisingly simple, placing a priority on reliability, a sensible depth rating, strong legibility, and a low visual signature (meaning it won’t call attention to itself). Quartz accuracy is a bonus, but not mandatory. 

These days, plenty of watches may qualify, but that hasn’t always been the case. Additionally, when it comes to military-issued watches, budget constraints will always play a role. That brings us to the first brand formally issued to the group, which comes from Cabot Watch Company, or CWC. 

CWC watches have a rich history of use by special forces units, and are prized for their robust build quality, legible dials, and fully indexed bezels. These are watches that can stand up to harsh conditions, thanks to thick case construction that includes a fixed lug bar through which a passthrough strap must be used (eliminating a potential point of failure). The CWC SBS (Special Boat Service, above) became a stalwart of use within the broader Special Forces apparatus of the British Army, and has changed surprisingly little over the course of decades in use. 

The SBS uses a 45mm steel case that is generally given a PVD black coating. A wide lug hugs the wrist. Thanks to a quartz movement, thickness is kept to a minimum, though enough to maintain a 300-meter depth rating. A broadsword hour hand joins a pencil minute hand to track time against a fully indexed dial and 120 click bezel, with the day and date set at the three o’clock position. It’s simple, easy to use, and quite charming. Issued examples get the requisite caseback marking to denote their year of manufacture and other pertinent information about the outfit it will be serving in. 

Another watch that was issued to members of the SAS was the Nite MX10, a watch that used tritium tubes in lieu of applied lume to maintain a sharp contrast far longer than you might expect from charged lume. This was a slightly more modern take on the formula, which still kept things relatively simple and straightforward.

The British SAS is a special forces unit, and many of the watches worn are based on personal preference. As a result, watches from the likes of Rolex, Omega, G-SHOCK, and Marathon have all featured on the wrists of these individuals. In fact, there have been unit orders for watches from these brands which feature the SAS insignia and other personal details, including a Breitling Avenger Seawolf, and a Rolex Explorer II, both of which bear the mark of the SAS. These personal watches carry a great deal of meaning and, as you might imagine, rarely appear in the second-hand market.

Image: Sotheby's

When they do, they offer an inside glimpse at something special. One such example is an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean "22 Special Air Service" with an engraved caseback featuring the SAS ‘Winged Dagger’ insignia, as well as the owner's individual military number. The case wall hosts an engraving that reads “Always A Little Further” for an additional personal touch. From the dial, the watch appears to be a standard Seamaster PO, making it a perfect allegory to the anonymous identities of SAS service members. 

Image: Bonhams

Another example is the Rolex Explorer reference 216570 ‘SAS’, which is a known reference customized by Rolex for the unit. Like the Omega, the caseback bears the same “22 Special Air Service” and ‘Winged Dagger’ insignia, along with an identification number tying it to a single individual. This one reads “Who Dares Wins” along the case wall, which is the SAS motto. It is believed that 150 pieces were produced, each unique to a unit member, making them one of the rarest examples of a modern Rolex reference built for a military unit.

[toc-section heading="Final Thoughts"]

Watches used by SAS members are often seen as a vital piece of kit, in the same category as a knife or compass. The watch fills a role, and even if it’s a redundancy, it has to work in the ‘two is one, one is none’ philosophy. These watches have a place outside of the bounds of cultural vanity and connect their utility to their history in a direct way. 

It’s true that watches don’t fill the same role as they once did in our lives, but they are still put to use in meaningful ways, and not just by SAS members. Tool watches remain a popular and powerful genre precisely because of the lore they’ve maintained over generations, and because of what they represent as a utility. These are trusted tools, and serve as a celebration of the individuals who put them to use. They can carry a great deal of meaning for the rest of us, too, and it’s our responsibility to pass those stories on to a new generation of enthusiasts and service members alike.