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Specification: Price: $449, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 17mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 1,000m, Movement: Seiko NH35 Automatic Power Reserve: 31 Hours, Crystal: Domed Acrylic.
The robustly built Zelos Hammerhead dives even deeper than the shark that it's named for — 1,000 meters, thanks in part to its built-in helium release valve. This version has a rugged 44-mm case made of bronze, a material with a long history of maritime use, in diving equipment like helmets and in the hulls of ships. Behind the nautical blue dial is a self-winding movement sourced from Seiko, protected behind an attractive solid caseback with an engraving of the deep-sea predator from which the Hammerhead model derives its name.
Specifications: Price: $259, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Mechanical Automatic, Crystal: Mineral.
An alternative to the black IP-coated version of this watch covered above, this gunmetal-gray-finished model has its own style of masculine appeal. It's got the same white-on-black date display, big luminous markers, and military-inspired 24-hour inner scale but sports a synthetic rubber strap in place of the all-black model's leather strap, a better option if you're actually planning to go diving with it.
Specification: Price: $400, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 12.15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30m, Movement: Miyota 8N26, Power Reserve: 42 Hours, Crystal: Domed Mineral
Rocking a skeleton watch is a great yet none-so-subtle way of broadcasting to the room that you're wearing a watch with a mechanical movement, and fortunately for those horological exhibitionists on a limited budget, ever-reliable Bulova offers one for under half a grand. The 43-mm stainless steel case houses an openworked version of the Japanese Miyota self-winding movement that offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The watch is mounted on a handsome three-link bracelet that fastens securely to the wrist with a push-button deployant clasp.
Specifications: Reference: SSK003, Price: $475, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 13.4mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 m, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R34
Seiko introduced the first GMT complication to the Seiko 5 sports line in 2022, equipping the watches with the automatic Caliber 4R34. Available in three colorways for the dial and bezel — black, orange, and blue — the watches have a central GMT hand in a contrasting color, used in coordination with the bicolor day/night bezels, with rings made of Hardlex glass like the crystal, to indicate a second time zone. The GMT hand is coated in Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite for nighttime legibility. Based on the design of the much-beloved SKX series of Seiko sports watches, the model has a five-link bracelet with polished middle rows.
Specifications: Reference: SRPJ1K1, Price: $295, Case Size: 36.37mm, Thickness: 12.52mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.43mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36
Another recent revival of a discontinued fan-favorite — namely the SNK 800 line of affordable, modestly dimensioned field watches — the 5 Sports Midfield evokes both nostalgia and a utilitarian military vibe. Its 36mm case distinguishes it from the larger field watches in the Seiko 5 Sports collection, from the SBSA family. The case’s matte, bead-blasted finish adds to its understated appeal and the dial’s inner 24-hour scale speaks to the early military-worn timepieces that inspired its design. The sturdy, reliable automatic movement includes a hacking seconds function, another useful element of watches worn by grunts on the battlefield. The Midfield models are offered in several colorways and with several bracelet and strap options including a nylon NATO.
Specifications: Price: $475, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.25mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko TMI NH34
California-based microbrand Nodus takes its name from the Latin word signifying the intersection of pathways, and symbolizes its mission of merging the two worlds of vintage and modern design.The Sector GMT delivers on that promise with its modestly sized, brushed 38mm case and sector-style dial design that draws inspiration from military watches issued during the 1920s through the 1940s. The watch diverges from many other GMTs with its use of an inner 24-hour scale, within the main ring of radial Arabic hour numerals, to designate the second time zone rather than the more common 24-hour bezel. The outsourced Seiko movement inside the case has been heavily regulated by Nodus’ Irvine, California workshop and offers a 41-hour power reserve.
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