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As we wrap up another wild year in watches, let’s take a look at some of our favorite men’s watches released this year. A few of these models feel like they’ve been with us for some time already, while the end of the year releases are still fresh on our minds. It was a big year for well-established, value-driven brands like Tissot, Hamilton, and Tudor, each dropping an array of impressive new models including a few surprises. Speaking of surprises, just this week (December 10, 2021) the final-ever steel Patek Philippe Nautilus was released in collaboration with iconic Tiffany & Co brand.
We will continue to add to this list into next year as end of the year models continue to drop throughout December. Don't forget to check out some of our other guides, including the Best Titanium Watches, Best Microbrands, and Best Minimalist Watches, among others.
Reference: 345.033 & 345.056; Case Size: 41.9 mm; Case Height: 12.1 mm; Movement: Automatic L021.3; Price: $104,500 & $116,000; Limited Edition: Ref 345.056 to 150 pieces
Lange launched a stunning pair of new perpetual calendars based on their iconic Lange 1 format in a rose gold, slate grey combination as well as a limited edition white gold, salmon dial option. Another incredible year of releases for the German brand that builds on one of the most impressive high horology catalogs in the world.
Reference: 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01; Case Size: 39 mm; Case Height: 8.1 mm; Movement: Automatic Caliber 2121; Price: On request;
News broke this spring that Audemars Piguet was discontinuing their iconic 15202ST Royal Oak “Jumbo” and replacing it with a new reference in 2022, but that didn’t stop them from adding another platinum model this year with a smoked green, sunburst dial. As one of the most desirable luxury sports models in the world, this piece is nearly impossible to obtain at the boutique level, but it certainly makes for a striking potential swan song if the 15202 reference ends up begin completely retired in the near future.
Reference: NM2188C-P13-BE; Case Size: 40 mm; Case Height: 11.3 mm; Movement: Automatic RR1103; Price: $1349;
Ball Watches had several really solid releases in 2021, with the Fireman Nightbreaker being one of our favorites. As with many of the existing models, this piece offers a lot of everyday value, offering a high level of legibility and durability. The blue dial has an interesting concentric circular design to it that helps it stand out from other models in the Fireman collection.
Versions: Blue Dial, Black Dial, PVD Black; Case Size: 39 mm; Case Height: 11.9 mm; Movement: Automatic Miyota 9039; Price: €650 (~ $730);
Baltic made a big splash this year for more than one reason, catching the attention of the collecting community with a huge OnlyWatch result, while also releasing one of the better values for a compressor-style dive watch, equipped with a non-screwdown 2 o’clock crown for easy engagement underwater. Three initial options are available for this brand new model.
https://baltic-watches.com/en/collections/dual-crown-compressor
Reference: BR05 Chrono White Hawk; Case Size: 42 mm; Movement: Automatic Caliber BR-301; Price: $6,100 to $6,600; Limited Edition to 250;
The BR05 collection has managed to leverage much of the instrument panel aesthetic that made the brand popular over the past two decades while adding an assortment of dial options and complications, including this new limited edition White Hawk Chronograph in the 42mm case with the option of either the very good steel bracelet or a rubber strap.
Reference: AB0930D31L1P1; Case Size: 40 mm; Case Heights: 13 mm; Movement: Manual Caliber B09; Price: $8400;
Quickly establishing itself as a serious pillar in the Breitling catalog, the Premier Collection is now home to some of Breitling’s best work. This year they released a few different dial executions, all of them very nice, but it’s this Pistachio green dial that stands out. It’s also a reasonable size at 40mm across and 13mm thick making it a very compelling chronograph given it’s equipped with the manual wind, in-house manufactured B09 movement.
Reference: AB0930D31L1P1; Case Size: 42 mm; Case Heights: 15.3 mm; Movement: Automatic Caliber B25; Price: $12,950;
Another striking model from the Premier Collection launched this year is the B25 Datora in steel, featuring a salmon dial with blue accent colors. It’s a complete calendar chronograph that’s well laid out, reminiscent of some popular upmarket references. It’s a bit big in comparison to the Premier B09, but striking nonetheless.
Reference: 103200; Case Size: 40 mm; Case Heights: 5.8 mm; Movement: Automatic Caliber BLV 305; Price: On Request;
Another world record-breaking piece from Bulgari, this time for the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar movement, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is also the 2021 winner of the prestigious GPHG “Aiguille D’or” Award, given to the year’s best overall watch. Bulgari continues to impress and shake up the industry with its record-setting timepieces.
Reference: 98A266 & 98A265; Case Size: 41 mm; Case Heights: 5.8 mm; Movement: Automatic SW200 in the 98A265 & Miyota 82S0 in the 98A266; Price: $1999 - 98A265/$895 - 98A266; Limited Edition: 1000 for the 98A265\
New to the Archive Series, these models are based on prototypes designed for the U.S. Navy which were never launched for public consumption. There are two MIL-SHIP models available, a limited version featuring a Sellita SW200 and a non-limited model equipped with a Miyota 82S0. Aesthetically, they share many of the same characteristics and if you want a deeper look into these two, be sure to check out our review.
Reference: 96B322; Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 14.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 666 ft, Movement: Auto Miyota 821D, Power Reserve: 42 Hours, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $795
With a stainless steel cushion case very much representing the original design’s era, and some of the more unusual hour indices you’ll see, the Devil Diver passes the eye test with some great colorways and has a reasonable retail price as well.
Bulova Lunar Pilot LE 50th Anniversary
Reference: 98A285; Case Size: 46mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Quartz Bulova 262kHz, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $995
The Bulova Lunar Pilot is an homage to the Bulova chronograph worn by US astronaut Dave Scott on the freakin’ Moon on Apollo 15. Visually, the Lunar Pilot is a faithful recreation, retaining the curvy case shape and distinctive elongated pushers of the original. This limited edition model comes in titanium with gold-toned steel accents.
Pasha de Cartier 41 Chronograph
Reference: CRWSPA0018; Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.9mm, Straps: Grey Alligator and Steel Bracelet, Movement: Auto Caliber 1904-CHMC, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $9900 - steel / $24,200 - yellow gold
The Pasha collection is in the midst of a new-age renaissance as Cartier reestablished the collection in 2020 and continued to add models this year. The Pasha de Cartier 41 Chronograph continues the modern evolution of this collection with its signature art deco style and finally finished case and bracelet to go along with the in-house movement. The Pasha is indeed back!
Santos-Dumont Limited Editions
Visit Cartier.com Case Size: 46.6mm x 33.9mm, Thickness: 7.5 mm, Movement: Manual Caliber 430MC, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: Upon Request
The Santos-Dumont was introduced as the world’s first pilot’s watch upon its launch in 1904. In its most recent incarnation, the Santos-Dumont has become the ultra luxe model in the Santos collection. This year they released two limited edition models, one in platinum and the other in 18kt rose gold. The platinum version even comes with white gold cufflinks!
Reference: NB6004-08E; Case Size: 46 mm; Case Height: 15.3 mm; Lug-to-Lug: 51 mm, Movement: Automatic Citizen Cal. 9051; Price: $1050;
The wildly popular Citizen Promaster collection added a mechanical diver in the form of a 46mm titanium case with the reference NA6004-08E this year. It’s a big move that should keep Citizen fans happy while potentially bringing some new eyeballs to the collection who enjoy such mechanical timekeepers. A new movement is debuting in this model as well, the in-house Caliber 9051.
Reference: DB25VGTIS3; Case Size: 42 mm; Case Height: 11.8 mm; Movement: Automatic Caliber DB2507; Price: ~$105,000;
De Bethune had a big year in 2021 in more ways than one, debuting some really good looking models including the DB25GMT Starry Varius. It’s a refreshed execution of the DB25 World Traveller with a celestial design replacing the time zones on the dial while also coming in a slightly thinner case constructed from titanium.
Reference: 0330.1.6321.100; Case Size: 39 mm & 43mm; Case Height: 10 mm & 10.6mm; Movement: Auto Sellita SW200; Price: $1390
Formex also had a big year, launching these well-received casually elegant, automatic Essence models in two sizes, 39mm and 43mm. They are packed with value at under $1500 and offer some compelling competition in this price category. We liked what Formex was offering and thought they deserved a deep video dive, which you can see here.
SLGH005 - “White Birch”
Reference: SLGH005; Case Size: 40mm; Case Height: 10 mm & 10.6mm; Movement: Auto Hi-Beat Caliber 9SA5; Price: $9100
Grand Seiko has made a habit of dropping some of the most anticipated and desired models over the past few years at any price level. This year, they launched a bevy of models, all of which worthy of a write up, however much of the attention was rightfully paid to this piece - the SLGH005 “White Birch”. The dial is designed to represent the Shirakaba white birch forest that surrounds the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi with a Zaratsu finished stainless steel case. The dial isn’t the only intriguing aspect of this model, the SLGH005 also debuts the exciting new hi-beat 9SA5 movement.
Reference: SLGA007; Case: 40mm, Lug-to-lug: 47.6 mm, Case Thickness: 11.8 mm, Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 9RA2; Price: $8700
The 9SA5 wasn’t the only movement released by Grand Seiko this year. In fact, they added a new thinner Spring Drive movement equipped with a 5 day power reserve which is debuting in this SLGA007 (and the 008). The SLGA007 marks the 140th anniversary of the founding of K. Hattori & Co, the predecessor to the Seiko namesake. The dial of the SLGA is reminiscent of Lake Suwa calm waves, residing near the Grand Seiko Shinshu Watch Studio.
Reference: H69459530; Case: 38mm, Lug-to-lug: 47 mm, Case Thickness: 9.5mm, Movement: Manual Caliber H-50; Price: $825
Hamilton debuted their first ever bronze case this year via the Khaki Field Mechanical collection. It made perfect sense if there is ever an alternative case metal option that works really well as a tactical field watch, it would be bronze. Nothing new to report in terms of updated aesthetics except to say the dial really does pop from the gold tone of the bronze and that this model doesn’t come with drilled lugs like the steel options do.
Reference: H76205530, Case: 38mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Case Thickness: 11.4 mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Movement: Manual Caliber H-50; Price: $995
The new Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer was a head turner this year with its surprising good looks. It derives some of its style from the WWII Model 23 pocket watch, back when Hamilton was a major supplier of timekeepers for the United States Armed Forces. The Pilot comes in either a 43mm or 38mm case and in either steel or bronze.
Reference: 3978430, Case: 45.6 X 27.4mm, Case Thickness: 8.5 mm, Movement: Manual Caliber 822/2, Price: $8750
The Reverso Tribute collection has become one of JLC’s most desired line-ups since it was launched in 2011. This year, a sunburst green dial was added to the existing blue, silver, and burgundy red variants. As we are in the midst of a green dial renaissance across the industry and while it’s a trendy color, the richness of this color sets a high bar.
Reference: L2.816.1.93.2; Case Size: 41 mm, Thickness: 14.5 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50 mm, Lug Width: 20 mm, Water Resistance: 30 m, Movement: Automatic L688, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $3225;
Debuting the back in February, the Petrol (blue) dial BigEye seems like it’s been around longer than it has. It was one of the best Longines models of the year and one of the most compelling pilots models any company produced all year long. The initial black dial which was introduced in 2017 won the GPHG’s prestigious “Revival” award, and while this a departure from the original's relatively conservative look, the blue might be even better.
Reference: L3.774.4.60.2, L3.774.4.90.2; Case Size: 42 mm, Thickness: 12.7 mm, Lug Width: 22 mm, Water Resistance: 300 m, Movement: Automatic L688, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $2300
A pair of colored dials were added to the popular Legend Divers collection this year in brown and blue gradients. They pair well with the traditional black dials while offering a bit more modern pizazz that keeps the collection fresh as more and more companies are willing to embrace the use of fun colors. No compromises were made in the specs department - the Legend Diver is still a great compressor and good value in its price category.
Reference: 51.S1L.W, 51.R1L.W, 51.W1L.W, ; Case Size: 40 mm, Case Thickness: 16 mm, Movement: In-House Manual LM101 by Kari Voutilanen, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: Upon Request
Max Büsser and Friends delivered some more incredible work this year. It’s the relatively conservative Legacy Machine 101 variants that launched in 2021 that really stand out, though. New dial colors of dark blue, light blue, and purple, along with movement updates and the first stainless steel option define this year’s novelties.
Reference: 51.S1L.W, 51.R1L.W, 51.W1L.W, ; Case Size: 57 mm x 47 mm, Case Thickness: 23 mm, Movement: In-House Manual LM101 by Kari Voutilanen, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: Upon Request
Truly one of the more extravagant Horological Machines to come out over the years, the HM9 Sapphire Vision is a mechanical marvel that comes in four different configurations, each limited
to only five examples each. Max and team hold nothing back and the result is one of the most radical modern watch designs we’ve ever seen.
Ocean Star Tribute
Reference: M026.830.11.041.00 ; Case Size: 40.5 mm, Thickness: 13.4 mm, Movement: Auto MIDO Cal. 80, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $1150 on the bracelet
The Ocean Star Tribute was a welcomed addition to pair with the current Ocean Star 200 models, celebrating 75 years of the Ocean Star name with strong ‘60s vibes in the looks department. It’s well sized with a 40.5mm diameter and 13.4mm case height so it should fit well on most wrists.
Mortiz Grossmann Anniversary Tremblage
Reference: MG-003327; MG-003290 ; Case Size: 41 mm, Thickness: 11.3 mm, Movement: Manual In-House Caliber 100.1, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: ~$36,000 in steel / ~ $48,500 in rose gold
Mortiz Grossman has begun receiving long-overdue and widespread recognition during the past couple of years, landing on the radar of collector’s in search of elite independent watchmakers. Having developed a reputation for their excellent dials, the Anniversary Tremblage continues this tradition with a sensational hand-finished technique that makes each dial unique as no two can be finished the same way.
Reference: 3200-1214 ; Case Size: 42.8 mm, Thickness: 15 mm, Movement: Auto HMC 200, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $13,900
One of the most competitive markets right now is the luxury sports space with every brand taking their best swing at it over the last 48 months. H. Moser & Cie is a brand hit one out of the park with the Pioneer collection and continues to further elevate the lineup by dropping a collection of Mega Cool dial colors.
Reference: 729; Case Size: 38.5 mm, Case Thickness: 8.5 mm, Movement: Manual Alpha Caliber; Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $1,500
Future Orange was a new colorway released in the Campus Club collection and it’s striking hue works well with the other hot colors currently being offered, including the siren blue and red. Further leaning into bright, interesting colors seems very much on-brand for the independent German watchmaker.
Reference: 310.30.42.50.01.001; Case Size: 42 mm, Case Thickness: 13.7 mm, Lug-to-Lug 47.2 mm, Movement: Manual Caliber 3861 Crystal: Sapphire or Hesalite, Price: $6,300 with Hesalite and bracelet/$7,150 with Sapphire and bracelet
The latest, greatest Speedmaster Moonwatch comes in the familiar 42 mm case size on either the sapphire sandwich format or equipped with a hesalite crystal and solid case back. The new movement is Caliber 3861 which is METAS and Mega Chronometer certified while featuring upgraded components, most notably the free sprung balance over the traditional regulating organ. Also upgraded with this generation is the bracelet, exhibiting slight difference between the finishing between the sapphire and hesalite models.
Reference: 234.30.41.21.03.001; Case Size: 41 mm, Case Thickness: 14.4 mm, Lug-to-Lug 48 mm, Movement: Auto Caliber 8912; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $6,500
Not only was the Speedmaster Moonwatch updated in 2021, so was the Seamaster 300. New for this year is the upgraded movement from the Caliber 8400 to the 8912, which is METAS certified, yielding 0/+5 second daily tolerances. A welcomed dial refreshing with a sandwich design, new lollipop second hand, and single line reference text builds off the previous generations aesthetics. Also, it comes in steel with a blue dial for the first time since the relaunch in 2014.
Reference: 01-733-7771-3158-07-8-19-15; Case Size: 38 mm, Case Thickness: 12.8 mm, Lug-to-Lug 45.2 mm, Movement: Auto Caliber 733 (SW200-1) Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $2,750
Few companies have embraced bronze the way Oris has in the past decade and if there was any doubt whether or not Oris still believes in it in 2021, we got our questions answered with the Divers Sixty Five Cotton Candy. They are mid-sized and gender-neutral, using pastel shades of blue, green, and pink for the dials. A very fashionable and interesting take on a bronze sports model.
Reference: 01-403-7776-4065-07-5-19-11; Case Size: 38 mm, Case Thickness: 12.2 mm, Lug-to-Lug 45.5 mm, Movement: Auto Caliber 403 Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $3,400
In a late year surprise, Oris released the first standard issue reference of their new Big Crown Pointer Date with the in-house Caliber 403. There is an aesthetic departure from the iconic previous generation as Oris moves away from the cathedral center set hands as well as the signature crescent moon pointer hand. If the first blue dial edition is setting the bar for the collection, it will justify the significantly higher $3400 retail price.
Reference: 5711/1A-018; Case Size: 40 mm, Case Thickness: 8.3 mm,, Movement: Auto Caliber 26-330 SC; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $52,600; Limited to 170
The biggest drop of the year and it is a doozy. Earlier in the year, Patek Philippe confirmed the discontinuation of the steel Nautilus 5711/1A would be taking place this year, only after releasing one more dial version with a deep green dial. As it turns out, Patek and Tiffany & Co have a very good relationship and have collaborated on a double-signed, Tiffany blue dial model limited to 170 - which is in stainless steel. Patek claims this is it, no more steel. If that is the case, what a way to go out. To mark the occassion, Patek has donated one of the 170 to be auctioned off for charity by Phillips auction house on December 11th and 12th, 2021.
Calatrava Ref. 6119
Reference: 6119G & 6119R; Case Size: 39 mm, Case Thickness: 8.3 mm, Movement: Manual Caliber 30-255 PS; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $29,570
Patek Philippe’s most important release in 2021 might be the most under the radar. Patek has discontinued a lot of the Calatrava collection over the past couple of years and haven’t added to it at the same rate, so it’s felt somewhat incomplete lately. However, the new reference 6119 answers the call with understated class, modern designs and elegance with an aesthetic that’s totally Patek.
Reference: M126233-0039; Case Size: 36 mm, Case Thickness: 12 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43mm; Movement: Auto Caliber 3235; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $11,700
While most of the attention is paid to Rolexes sport model releases each year, updates to the Datejust collection occasionally fly under the radar. This year was a little bit different as Rolex introduced new dial motifs to the Datejust 36 collection that were more profound and eye-catching than the minimal visual updates applied to the much anticipated Explorer II refresh.
Explorer 36
Reference: M124273-0001; Case Size: 36 mm, Case Thickness: 11.5 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43mm; Movement: Auto Caliber 3230; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $10,800
The original 36mm case size is back this year for Explorer in either all stainless steel, or in two toned yellow gold and steel, for the first time. The dial gets fully lumed markers, including at the 3, 6, and 9, and fully lumed hands. Caliber 3230 is the power plant providing 70 hours of power reserve and running -2/+2 each day.
Seiko 5 Sports SRPG35
Reference: SRPG35K1; Case Size: 39.4 mm, Case Thickness: 13.2 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.1mm; Movement: Auto Caliber 4R36; Crystal: Hardlex; Price: $275
Seiko released the SRPG35 this year as an affordable mechanical field watch option with competitive specs and pricing. It has a classic tactical dial layout with plenty of lume and a great sub-40mm case diameter. The SRPG models offer different dial colors depending on the reference, but it’s the 35 that is the most classically designed with the black dial and the “aged” lume look.
Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver 35th Anniversary Edition Ref. S23635J1
Reference: S23635J1; Case Size: 49.4 mm, Case Thickness: 16.4 mm, Movement: Quartz Caliber 7C46; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $275
Celebrating the 35th anniversary of the important 1986 “Tuna” diver that offered a quartz movement with 1000m of water resistance capabilities, the new S23635J is limited to 1200 pieces, complete with special packaging and an additional silicon rubber strap. We love the transitional blue-to-black dial and the bold sections of lume.
Reference: T137.407.11.041.00; Case Size: 40 mm, Case Thickness: 10.9 mm, Movement: Auto Powermatic 80.111; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $650
One of the very best releases of 2021 has to be the Tissot PRX. It's stylish with a late 80s early 90s Oysterquartz vibe going on. It's well sized, well finished and well equipped for the money. At $650 for the top-tier Powermatic 80 variant, it's one of the most compelling Swiss made Mechanical watches on the market. We took a deep dive look at the PRX in a few videos this year.
Reference: M79012m-0001; Case Size: 39 mm, Case Thickness: 11.9 mm, Movement: Auto MT5400 (COSC); Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $4525
Tudor continued to build out their impressive Black Bay collection with several new additions including this Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, reference M79012M. It comes with the a new bronze T-fit clasp on the buckle for a precise fit while the "brown-bronze" dial and bezel combination is warm and luxurious.
Reference: M79360; Case Size: 41 mm, Case Thickness: 14.4 mm, Movement: Auto MT5814 (COSC); Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $5225 on bracelet
The 2021 Black Bay Chronograph models come in either a white "Panda" dial or black "Reverse Panda" dial with some heavy Newman-era Daytona inspiration taking place. Case height has been reduced slightly, which should improve the overall wearability and it addressed on of the biggest issues with the previously released models.
Reference: 7910V/000T-B922; Case Size: 41 mm, Case Thickness: 12.8 mm, Movement: Auto Caliber 5110 DT/2; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $31,300; Limited to 150;
With this limited edition "Everest" version, Vacheron goes with a lightweight titanium case and pairs a steely blue dial with darker tones and orange accents that pop off the strap and dial. It's a boutique edition and only 150 examples will be produced. It was launched alongside an Overseas Chronograph in the same configuration and both are quite striking.
Reference: 03.3200.3600/69.M3200; Case Size: 38 mm, Case Thickness: 12.7 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm; Movement: Auto Caliber El Primero; Crystal: Sapphire; Price: $9000
After years of El Primero tribute models, the Chronomaster Original is the closest reinterpretation of the first A386. It's 38mm and offered in three versions, a reverse Panda styled black dial with white sub-registers along with the iconic tri-colored chronograph layout, both in steel, and a rose gold option as well. Powering the piece is the impressive El Primero 3600 movement.
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