Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Dress Watches Of 2024

It makes sense that a fairly conservative year like 2024 (for the larger more mainstream brands, at least) was a banner year for dress watches. Yes, the humble but ever-so-important dress watch came out swinging with absolute showstoppers from Parmigiani and Lange. At the same time, Rolex seemed to turn around the reception to their new 1908 collection with an ice blue follow up while the Japanese held it down for more accessible entries. We asked the editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite dress watches from the year and the results are really a great “best of.” So without further ado, here are the dress watches we loved from last year:

Mark Bernardo: Rolex 1908

The line between what is “sporty” and what is “dressy” in the watch industry has been blurring for decades, and some of today’s most popular models occupy a space somewhere in the middle. Much of the stylistic encroachment, however, has been one-sided, with sportier designs pushing their way into more formal settings. In 2015’s Spectre, for example, James Bond wore an Omega Seamaster Diver — on a NATO strap, no less — with a tuxedo. Is anyone gonna tell 007 that that’s not a proper dress watch? But “dress watches” are still a thing, still a category that most of us instinctively recognize even if it's getting harder to define what that category means. Rolex, however, has no problem defining what a dress watch is, and as it has done so often throughout the years — see the Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, and the various watches they begat — the Crown also has no problem showing the rest of the watch industry how to design the definitive timepiece in a given category. All of this is my circuitous path to introducing my Dress Watch of the Year, the new platinum-cased Rolex Perpetual 1908.

Note that it’s “Perpetual,” not “Oyster Perpetual,” an indication that the 39mm case used here is of a simpler construction than the robust, hermetically sealed Oyster cases found on so many of Rolex’s sport-luxury models — i.e., less water resistant but more elegant. That is Rolex proclaiming that the 1908, named for the year the modern company was named, is built to be worn in civilized, formal settings rather than underwater or while scaling a mountain. Yes, a dress watch made to be a dress watch, not a sport or tool watch that became dressy by default of its popularity.

The first Perpetual 1908 models, which descended from the Cellini, which descended from the Prince (well, the history is all here if you’re interested), landed in 2023, establishing the collection’s inarguably dressy aesthetic: all precious metal cases, with coin-edge bezels and fluted lugs; exhibition casebacks to show off the movements (believe it or not, still a rarity for Rolex even in this day and age); Art Deco-style Arabic numerals and vintage hands on the dial; alligator leather straps rather than Oyster or Jubilee bracelets. The 2024 version that turned heads at Watches & Wonders Geneva features a sleek, ice-blue dial with a delicately executed, rosette-style geometrical pattern radiating from the center and a filet sauté pattern along the minute track. Inside the platinum case is the automatic Caliber 1704, made in-house and storing a 66-hour power reserve. Time will tell if the Perpetual 1908 will be as widely (in some instances, shamelessly) emulated as other Rolex models, but its release has put Rolex back on the map of elegant dress watches — arguably, the only major watch genre that the company had yet to conquer.

Bilal Khan: Louis Vuitton Escale

The Louis Vuitton Escale was totally redesigned for its tenth anniversary this year, following in the footsteps of the Tambour collection as LV moves further upmarket with consolidated offerings. Released in three variants (two rose-gold models with either blue or silver textured dials, and a platinum model with meteorite dial), the new Escale is all about the small details. Touches like the hour and minute hands resembling tapered needles and riveted hand-applied indices designed to evoke the brass brackets on classic LV luggage are really impressive while also having an authentic tie to the brand’s history. The 39mm-wide and 10mm-thick case has the same LFT023 movement as the Tambour, which is characterized by that beautiful hand-engraved gold micro-rotor. The TLDR on the new Escale? Fashion watches ain’t what they used to be. The Escale in rose gold is priced at $27,500 while the platinum model is $37,000, which falls right around the price of the platinum-cased Rolex Perpetual 1908 and well below the also-excellent Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde.

Erin Wilborn: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition

While I’m pretty sure my pick for the “Most Affordable” episode of Editors’ Picks could also apply here and vice-versa, I wanted to go with a release from Seiko that surprised me with how much I liked it. I, among others, have really been enjoying two-tone watches lately, and Seiko’s take on its Presage Cocktail Time collaboration with Japanese Bar STAR BAR gives that look in a funky yet approachable way with its gold-tone hands, and indices set against the grey textural dial. 

One thing I’ve appreciated about Seiko’s various iterations of its dressy Presage Cocktail collection is that they usually come in a duo of two sizes – one with a 40.5mm diameter, and another model in 30.3mm – and automatic mechanical movements with manual winding power both models. As an unabashed small-watch lover, I’m used to having to compromise with quartz movements, so this touch is something that doesn’t go unnoticed, or unappreciated in my book. Both models retail for $650 USD, are water-resistant 50 meters, and are technically limited-edition makes — though, admittedly, 6,000 units is quite large for a limited- production run… 

Jonathan McWhorter:  A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Platinum 30th Anniversary

If you’re keeping score at home, this is my second pick from the Glashütte watchmaker for our series of End of Year Editors’ Picks. Based on that, you’d be right to accuse that maybe I’m showing some favoritism. That is also true, because A. Lange & Söhne is my favorite watchmaker, and the whole premise here is picking favorites. Of course, these selections are not without merit, and the 30th Anniversary Lange 1 released this year is my favorite dress watch of 2024.

For the 30th birthday of the brand’s relaunch in 1994, Lange outfitted its flagship model with a chic new birthday suit — limited, of course. While the pink gold with blue dial is very tasteful and well-executed, the platinum reference with the onyx dial is the one for me. I think it speaks for itself, a fitting celebration of what’s become such an iconic watch. Like I said in the “Money No Object” piece, Lange is all about quiet excellence, and without the same buzz as some other high-end brands, could even be considered an IYKYK type watchmaker; and this spec of the Lange 1 could not be more on-the-money with its execution. 

Dress watches are meant to be extremely personal, their chief characteristic being the ability to slide under a cuff and be hidden, meant only to be experienced by the wearer. They tend to be small, thin, and very personal forms of expression and ownership, often being sentimental in their own ways. This Lange 1 is the embodiment of that formula of “quiet excellence” that I believe Lange is so good at. While the case isn’t exactly small, it’s not offensively large either. The white case metal and black dial are quite unassuming to any passerby. But to the wearer, the weight of the platinum and depth of the stone dial are significant reminders of the special-ness of this already special piece.

Blake Buettner: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde

As Watches & Wonders dies down each year, I generally ask colleagues and friends if there were any watches that stood out to them personally, and while I usually get a range of answers, this year was different. Almost all of them had the same answer: the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric. Parmigiani returned to its roots with the new Toric, a collection that accompanied the launch of the brand in 1996. A modern interpretation has proven to be a breath of fresh air for its ability to balance restraint with rich, engrossing detail. The result is a truly beautiful watch to behold, with interesting details at every corner that are all executed with a deft hand so as not to disturb the delicate balance at play. The dial is particularly wonderful to admire, not only for the two distinctive and carefully chosen colors, but also for their incredibly fine grain-like texture. The movement, case, and finishing are all exemplary, as well. This is a complete package from Parmigiani and it’s easily my favorite formal watch released this year. 

Danny Milton: Blancpain Villeret Green Dial

This year, I am keeping things simple and going with a watch that caught me by surprise when it was launched. First of all, it sat in the shadows of its far more complicated complete calendar sibling. But I was interested in the simple time-and- date Blancpain Villeret with the new green dial in rose gold. Sure, when we all think of Blancpain, our brains invariably go to some form of a Fifty Fathoms. And in past years plus, the brand has hit a number of releases out of the park in the tool-watch range. But this is about dress watches, and this green Villeret is a dress watch through and through, with its simple, Roman numeral dial layout, and a deeply underrated movement by way of the 1151 caliber, with 100 hours of power reserve. The watch is official called the Extraplate. And yes, I would love of an extra plate of this please for the holidays.

D.C. Hannay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monoface

It’s a rare occasion that I wear a dress watch, but I do have a couple of vintage examples that get to stretch their legs a few times a year. But as far as modern timepieces are concerned, most of my watch box leans hard into the tool category. Which makes sense, given my lifestyle and general lack of grace, but maybe it’s time I grow up, even just a little, and get myself a proper dress watch from this century. Even if my pick looks more like something from the last century, I gotta be me, so if I’m going to shell out for a real-deal, big boy dress watch, I’d better take a look at the current market. And I have to say, one of the best things I’ve seen all year is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Monoface, precisely because it wraps all the qualities of a vintage version in a brand new bow. 

The Reverso design has always fascinated me, from the Art Deco case details and elegant dial aesthetics, to the never-gets-old party trick of its signature case flip. In my view, it’s as elegant as any Cartier I’ve seen, and far more interesting. And in this newly downsized format, the Reverso gets closer to vintage dimensions than it’s been in some time, minus the accompanying vintage headaches. Until recently, in order to get a smaller Reverso, you needed to settle for quartz, or get used to the idea of a girthier case housing an automatic movement. This one gets it right, with a manually-wound Caliber 822 hiding behind a caseback that’s begging for a meaningful engraving, the way watches used to be. Marked for life. I love that lost tradition, and a Reverso is the perfect canvas for it. And not for nothing, but I think the idea of the reversing case is just so cool, suggesting secret identities, double agents, or any number of covert operations. And given the built-in intrigue, it’s no wonder Bruce Wayne wore a Reverso.