The Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton And The Revival Of Skeletonization

H. Moser & Cie has had a remarkably successful run the last few years. In particular, it has managed to strike that fine balance between simultaneously appealing to new and younger customers as well as the seasoned collector who has seen it all and wants to try something new. For a prime example of the latter, you don’t need to look further than this year’s Watches & Wonders where the indie heavyweight released the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton watch.

The Streamliner debuted in early 2020 as a Flyback Chronograph, but it was the simpler, sophomore three-hand Centre Seconds version that really got the community excited about this then-new integrated-bracelet sports watch. With a few years and several iterations behind us, I believe it is the Tourbillon Skeleton that cements the collection as a top-tier competitor that holds its own against the obvious names, like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Aquanaut or Nautilus (or Cubitus, now?). This watch was also the natural follow-up to 2022’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, which showed off Moser’s chops at skeletonization as well as that wonderfully eye-catching tourbillon — both made possible due to Moser having sister company Precision Engineering AG at its disposal.

The skeletonized AP Royal Oak is undisputedly the reigning champion of the admittedly highly niche openworked sport-watch category. But as nerdy as it may be, I’ve noticed a legitimate uptick in appreciation for the art of skeletonization, with exceptional integrated-bracelet sport-watch releases from Vacheron Constantin and Parmigiani in addition to the two already discussed. As the saying goes, what’s old is new again, and I think this definitely applies to skeletonization in watchmaking, which has gone from dusty to chic in the last four or five years.

Why exactly do I give this Moser and some of its peers (the Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton also glaringly comes to mind) so much credit? Well, it has to do with understanding the technique of skeletonization as an art form and not simply an act of militant editing in order to achieve “maximal minimalism.” No, you do not have to be as elaborately traditional as the Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref. 3880J to be considered a top-tier work of skeletonization anymore. Of course, I need to give credit where credit is due to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15305, which was released back in 2010 and introduced skeletonization to a new generation. Much of its success was due to the moody anthracite finishes lending it an industrial feel that matched the vibe of the Royal Oak.

A big reason why the Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton works is because it is finished in a way that matches the personality of the watch. Of course, the HMC 814 movement is a tailor-made fit for the case. The sweeping curves and lines are done in an anthracite PVD with diamond beveling that stands in stark contrast with the dramatic negative space that has been carved out. The creative architecture of the openworked movement is bolstered with the watchmaking on display here, namely the tourbillon. I also appreciate the gold-plated indices and hands, which seems like small touches but ones that go a long way in helping with legibility.

As for the basics, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton measures 40mm wide and 12.1mm thick with 120 meters of water resistance. While you may initially think the HMC 814 movement is manual-winding — due to the see-through nature of the skeletonization and the slimness of the case — it is actually an automatic movement, with a rotor that is thoughtfully skeletonized so as to not impede and to actually add another layer of depth to the dial. The HMC 814 has a 72-hour power reserve and also boasts a double hairspring.

It’s difficult to talk about “value” when discussing such a niche and pricey category but a little bit of context can put things into perspective. The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring is priced at $86,900, which is actually a little bit more than the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked (good luck trying to get one of these at retail and they trade for considerably more on the secondary market) — but is about one-third the price the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked which is a more accurate comparison on a watchmaking level. You can learn more at h-moser.com