It Takes 50 Steps To Create The Blue Dial On This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Last month I wrote a story on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface watches, a pair of perfectly unisex entry-level Reverso watches inspired by the 1931 original. Here I want to discuss another Reverso Tribute watch the brand released this year, a solid pink-gold Reverso Duoface Small Seconds. If you’re not totally caught up on the intricacies and history of the JLC Reverso, our Director of Editorial Content and watchmaking encyclopedia Mark Bernardo wrote a comprehensive guide to this iconic watch that you can read here. Now, where the Monoface had the dial on one side and a blank steel canvass on the reverse, this Duoface has a time-only side done in blue and the reverse side with a 24-hour Night/Day display in silver, which makes this a pretty versatile dress-and-travel watch.

My eyes were immediately drawn to that deep inky blue dial, which I’ve tried to convey as accurately as I can with my photos but, as usual, it’s much more impactful in person. The reason the blue on this dial is so much richer than that of your average watch dial is because the craftsmen and -women at JLC apply over 20 layers of lacquer to the dial. This is a very time-consuming and elaborate process, because you have to wait for each layer to dry before meticulously and carefully applying the next layer. All in all, it is a 50-step process required to achieve this beautiful blue dial but it’s absolutely worth it. They way it goes from vibrant and bright to deep and dark, which is really a delight to behold.

The reverse side is done in a more staid but still very attractive silver sunray finish. While the handset is the same on both sides, I appreciate the little differences like the double indices on this side compared to the classic single indices on the blue dial. While I usually am not too fond of extra text on a dial, I actually think the Night and Day plates are really impressively finished and benefit from symmetrical placement. Back to the indices, it’s great how they naturally extend from the Night and Day plates and then naturally curve around the 24-Hour subdial.

The 18k pink gold case measures 47mm tall, 28.3mm wide, and 9.6mm thick, which is bigger than the unisex Monoface (40.1mm tall, 24.4mm wide, and 7.56mm thick), but I wouldn’t say it’s prohibitively large by any means. I have a fairly average sized wrist, measuring right between the 6.75- and 7-inch mark (or just over 17cm) on a soft tape measure and the watch doesn’t look or feel too big for me.

One more detail to note about the case is the small slider used to set the 24-hour display, found on the top case band, which is hidden unless the case is released and flipped over. The watch is manually wound, outfitted with the tried-and-tested Calibre 854 movement, which has a 42-hour power reserve. This a fairly straightforward movement that, while not generous with power reserve, is reliable and form-fitted to the rectangular case.

The watch has the interchangeable strap system that’s now prevalent in the Reverso collection. This watch comes with a blue calf leather strap as well as a blue fabric/leather strap, both by Fagliano. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds is priced at $25,500, which, while not inexpensive by any means, is a fair enough price for a pink-gold Duoface watch with this level of detail. You can learn more at jaeger-lecoultre.com.