The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Review

Back in 2023, Rolex replaced the Cellini with the 1908 as its premier dress watch. The exhibition caseback and the then-new Caliber 7140 movement with Syloxi balance wheel was a strong start for the collection, which was then further bolstered by the addition of that truly lovely Ice Blue guilloché dial on the platinum model from 2024. It does seem like everything was getting ready for 2025, when the 1908 collection truly came into its own with the dazzlingly impressive new 1908 in yellow gold with the new, matching Settimo bracelet.

For those who are curious, “Settimo” is indeed a new moniker for Rolex and it refers to the seven-link bracelet seen here. This bracelet is entirely dedicated to the 1908 collection and really makes all the difference in taking the collection from very good to truly exceptional. Dress watches are often seen as too stuffy these days, but a bracelet might be what the doctor ordered — because I did not lust after the 1908 initially, but on a Settimo bracelet? It’s near the top of my list. And if we see one in steel? Forget about it. Sold.

The seven links of the Settimo bracelet are all polished and slightly contoured to wear comfortably on the wrist. The bracelet reflects and plays with the light wonderfully when you see it in person, and I have a feeling there are going to be a lot of people deciding to pull the trigger on one of these once they experience it in the metal. It’s totally solid and feels tough while being delicate enough to almost drape around the wrist. Some people took issue with the fact that the end-links don’t sit completely flush with the case, but personally, I don’t want that integrated look on a dress watch. The Land-Dweller’s new “integrated Flat Jubilee” bracelet works with its more hybrid style, but when it comes to a pure dress watch, I actually prefer how the Settimo is executed.

The Settimo also has a special system which attaches it to the middle of the case, for which Rolex has filed a patent. Finally, we can’t forget the Crownclasp system which is made up of discreet folding blades and a clasp closure that is hidden beneath that unmistakable Rolex crown emblem.

With a 39mm wide and 9.5mm thick case, and a fluted bezel, the 1908 is pure class. This model features a striking white dial with matching hands, gold indices, a Rolex crown appliqué above the logo, and 12, 3, and 9 o’clock hour markers. Note that the Rolex 1908 on the Settimo bracelet is also available with an “intense black” dial. Finally, there is the Caliber 7140 movement visible through the caseback. Accurate to -+2 seconds/day and boasting a Syloxi hairspring, this movement has a 66-hour power reserve.

While the Land-Dweller got most of the attention this year, Rolex really had some excellent offerings in its 2025 release catalog. Still, I don’t think anyone — at least, not I— was expecting such a heavy-hitter to come out of the 1908 collection. And that’s not said with any disrespect: it’s just that we really don’t live in a time where dress watches garner this much acclaim and genuine excitement. But this is Rolex, and we should not be the least bit surprised that the Crown has mastered the recipe of what consumers want from a luxury dress watch in 2025. The Rolex 1908 in yellow gold with matching Settimo bracelet is priced at $35,000, which seems completely reasonable. You can learn more at Rolex.com.