Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Updates And Refreshes From Watches & Wonders 2025

Last time, we shared our top all-new releases from Watches & Wonders 2025, but what about the lion’s share of new pieces that fall under the “design update, refresh, or extension” category? These aren’t typically the most exciting bits of news from a major trade show but there are some really impressive watches that fit the bill. So, with our post-show recaps from Watches & Wonders 2025 winding down (there is one more to go, though!), we asked the editorial team here at Teddy to give us their favorite new-ish release.

Danny Milton: Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy

How do you refresh arguably your most popular watch? Well, you continue to dig into your archives and make small adjustments with maximum impact to effectuate what at once appears both new and old. That’s the Black Bay 58 Burgundy in a nutshell. Just as the BB41 line adjusted the teeth on the bezel, the size of the crown and the bracelet, so too has the BB58 taken to a smaller crown (thank you, Tudor), a more aggressive bezel edge, and the five-link bracelet. This watch feels much more akin to the Tudor Submariners of old. In fact, it is modeled after a never-released prototype Tudor Sub Date model. Burgundy is integral to the birth of the Black Bay line and using it to infuse new life into the 58 is a welcome refresh.

Mark Bernardo: Panerai Luminor Marina

As a general rule, Panerai doesn’t do “subtle.” Its watches are famously big, unmistakably distinctive in their design, and built to be noticed across a crowded room. The Luminor Marina is perhaps the quintessential Panerai watch, as it best exemplifies the brand’s modern ethos of being a luxury item that is still unapologetic about its tool-watch origins. However, even Panerai has been known to make slight concessions to modern trends and tastes, and here is where that rare subtlety comes in. This year at Watches & Wonders, the Luminor Marina was the focus, with Panerai adding several tweaks to the outside and inside of the watch that don’t leap out at you upon first glance but are likely to be much appreciated after some quality wrist time.

The famous cushion-shaped case spans 44mm wide, an option introduced a few years ago as an alternative to the massive 47mm original, but in the newest updates the case’s thickness is winnowed down by 15 percent for a more widely wearable size. The dial’s date window is slightly larger and now has a beveled frame that adds a hint of depth. The lume on the numerals and markers is Panerai’s Super-LumiNova X2, which glows brighter in the dark than standard SLN. The case is now available in steel and (for the first time in the Marina family) in titanium, for an even lighter wrist presence. Meanwhile, the water resistance has been bolstered to 500 meters from the 200 meters of the model’s predecessors. The in-house movement inside is also new, and thinner, with a three-day power reserve and a hacking seconds function. On one of the steel-cased models, Panerai is debuting an all-new bracelet with a tapered design and a quick-length-adjust mechanism. And don’t worry — the patented crown-protecting bridge that defines the Luminor remains a dominant feature on the new models, so you’ll still get glances from across the room. 

Erin Wilborn: Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green

It might not be a full refresh, but the new minty green take on Parmigiani’s Tonda PF skeleton was, well, refreshing. The brand really brought it with the colors this year: all the muted blues and greens across its offering had a spa-like effect on my senses. I’m not typically drawn to skeleton-dial watches – usually, they just feel a little too steampunk for me. But, for myself, and judging from others’ reactions at Watches And Wonders, the slate green reboot of this watch was something of a show-stealer. 

This piece is 40mm, but I find that the short, curved lugs across the brand’s offerings sit snug and comfortable on the wrist. The size doesn’t feel like it's swallowing my arm whole like some other 40mm watches. With its dreamy, eucalyptus-like color treatment, the skeletonized movement is really something to see in person; photos don’t really do it justice. Additionally, the hands and indices are so brightly polished that they bounce the light from every angle, which counteracts the lack of legibility that’s often the tradeoff with skeleton watches. It’s always fun to be faced with a piece that surprises you, that challenges your preconceptions and pushes the limits of your taste.

Jonathan McWhorter: Cartier Santos Small

The Cartier Santos may be one of my favorite watches of all time, no hyperbole. When I was first getting into watches, this is the watch that opened my eyes in many ways to watch collecting, and ultimately a Santos Carrée became my first luxury watch purchase. So, to see the Santos de Cartier return to a small size is truly an exciting development. It’s a good-looking watch at all sizes, but I think this classic design really lends itself to smaller proportions, and actually looks good on more people than you’d expect.

The sizing is, of course, the headline with this refresh: 27mm x 34.5mm. This may sound small at first, and I can’t lie to you; it is. But the nature of a square watch means this watch will definitely wear larger than you think. Further, the bold case elements like the bezel, proportionally large lugs, and, of course, the eye-catching bracelet with polished screws all the way around give the Santos de Cartier plenty of wrist presence to make up for any lack of physical size.

I do hope to see white-dial variants as I’m not in love with these sunray dials, but that’s a simple matter of opinion. Also, while a mechanical movement would have been more than welcome, I do understand the choice of “high autonomy quartz” in order to keep costs down and keep the model priced in line with the rest of the catalog. The two-tone is obviously the correct choice, as one of the Hills I Will Die On is that I think the Santos is the archetype for a mixed-metal format; but the all-steel and of course full-gold models are exceptional in their own right; any Santos only gets better with wear and a life full of scratches. As an owner of an older Santos, I can report with confidence that this is a watch that rewards its owner for wearing it frequently and often.

D.C. Hannay: Chanel Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition

I’m fully aware of my propensity to stay in my self-imposed lane — vintage-leaning tool watches, with the occasional midcentury dress piece — but every now and then, I like to take a little side trip. This pick is one such detour. Over the past several years, I’ve become low-key obsessed with tool watches from decidedly non-tool watch fashion houses like Dior and Hermès. The one that lit the slow-burning fuse, the Chanel J12 Marine, was a ceramic 300-meter diver, an offshoot of the wildly popular J12 line. It’s now sadly discontinued, but I’ve been keeping my eye on the watch-centric activities of the maison ever since, and there’s one piece that’s captured my attention in ways I never expected: the Monsieur de Chanel, specifically the ceramic-cased variants. 

You can ask anyone: a fancy lad I am not. And yet, this jump-hour, haute-horology timepiece has its hooks in me. After some deep thinking, I’ve chalked it up to a dial that appears straight out of a supercar’s dashboard. The retrograde minute scale dominates the dial like a tachometer, with small seconds just below, and the jump-hour aperture at the bottom, almost appearing as a massive gear shift display: you half expect it to read "neutral" at some point during the day. Come to think of it, a "reverse" setting on a watch might come in handy for those moments when you need a do-over.

For 2025, Chanel has released the third iteration of this ceramic statement piece, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition, and let me tell you, this stunner is the portrait of Gallic cool. It’s rendered all the more seductive in that very Chanel shade of blue that took five years of R&D to get right, but it’s a perfect match to the iconic Bleu de Chanel bottle. The dial gets a bit of skeletonization, along with a guilloché pattern that resembles the engine turning on a vintage automobile’s dashboard. And lest you think that a fashion house can’t offer a legit movement, the Calibre 1 is serious business. The manually wound, retrograde/jump-hour movement is a twin-barrelled beast, with a free-sprung balance, a rate of 4 Hertz, and a power reserve of 72 hours. It was designed by the head of Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio, Arnaud Chastaingt, along with the estimable Romain Gauthier. In other words, the Monsieur de Chanel has some serious street cred. So while this watch represents something of an offramp from my tastes, with its upscale complication and price tag of “upon request” dollars, I’ll be honest: I got the blues, and I got ‘em bad.

Blake Buettner: Tudor Pelagos Ultra

It’s been many years since we’ve seen a proper addition to the original Pelagos collection, but that’s exactly what we got this year with the new Pelagos Ultra. This watch feels like something of a reboot for the collection, bringing a slightly reworked design that recalls the original, released in 2012 alongside the Black Bay. This is Tudor’s over-engineered, modern deep diver, and the Ultra pushes that envelope further than ever. 

The Pelagos Ultra is scaled up to 43mm, and as you'd expect, is crafted from titanium. It’s bulky, but easily wearable. The design of the dial has been scaled in equal measures so it doesn’t look like a huge watch by any stretch. This is an often overlooked aspect of making a larger watch work, and Tudor nails it here. The T-fit clasp also makes an appearance without compromising on the spring-loaded extension system. It’s got all the charm of the original Pelagos, but feels more refined all around. Stepping back, the Pelagos Ultra is yet another expression of the bog standard black-on-black diver, and while it isn’t breaking any new ground, there’s something to be said about Tudor taking an evolutionary approach here, paving the way for the next generation of what a modern dive watch can be.

Bilal Khan: Chopard L.U.C Quattro

The Chopard L.U.C Quattro is one of the more underrated collections out there. Ever since its debut more than 25 years ago, the Quattro has been known for its four-barrel movement that provides a whopping nine-day power reserve at a steady 4 Hz. Not just that, but the manual-wind movement is remarkably slim, at just 3.75mm thick. While the first-generation Quattro came in at 38mm wide and just shy of 10mm thick, recent iterations had blown up to the 43mm case size that Chopard L.U.C embraced in the last decade or so but have moved on from in the last few months. The new Quattro comes in at a perfect 39mm wide and 10.4mm thick with a cleaner dial, new basinne-shaped case, and brass dials done in a frosted finish with galvanized deep or ice blue dial. The rose-gold model is priced at $38,400 while the platinum is $47,900 so these are obviously quite expensive, but in a world of dull and predictable dress watches, Chopard offers something unusual in the best possible way.