Oris Revitalizes Big Crown Pointer Date Collection for 2025

Oris is placing its focus squarely on the historic Big Crown Pointer Date collection this year, with the introduction of five new references that include both “red rotor” Sellita- based options, as well as options containing Oris’s own Caliber 403. Small refinements at nearly every corner add up to make the new collection an overall more mature experience, all without compromising the core DNA that made the design great in the first place. It’s a delicate balance that Oris has proven adept at in recent years, and that’s highlighted here this week, at Watches & Wonders 2025. There’s plenty to be found upon closer inspection, but the standout feature of these new watches are their colorful dials.

Updating a classic design that, for all intents and purposes, wasn’t broken in the first place, is a difficult proposition. This was the case with the Oris Aquis, which underwent a similar refresh just last year, and it is not the first time the Big Crown Pointer Date has faced such a moment. This is a design that originated in 1938, after all, and experienced its first modern re-emergence in the mid ‘80s. Through it all, the design language has remained largely intact. This remains the case with these five new references, released 87 years after the original. 

Of the five new Big Crown Pointer Date references, two are outfitted with Oris’s in-house Caliber 403, and three use Sellita-based movements. All five of the watches feature 40mm steel cases with unique dial colors that evoke a deep emotional reaction. That may sound like hyperbole, but these colors go beyond what you’d typically expect when thinking of their base hues. Each feels well thought-out, and they range from bright and vibrant to subtle and elusive. These dials are the real soul of these new watches, but don’t let them district you from the broad refinements that have been made elsewhere.

First, let’s take a look at the two Caliber 403-equipped Big Crown Pointer Date models. Oris has labeled these dial colors “green” and “terracotta” but that’s selling them short, I think. Both of the colors have subtle beauty that nears pastel territory in quality. The green dial feels warm, with a bit of yellow mixed in, and holds back on the saturation. It feels appropriate heading into spring, and frames the symmetrical design of the hands and chapter ring with enough contrast to maintain legibility. It’s a similar story with the terracotta dial, which looks a bit like the brand’s own definition of a salmon dial, with warm pink tones at the forefront. Both of the colors are intriguing, and due to their nature, will likely be “love it or hate it” at a glance. Not a bad thing, if you ask me. 

These Caliber 403-equipped models can be quickly differentiated by their use of subsidiary seconds placed at 6 o’clock on the dial. This design harkens back to the original from the ‘30s, but it doesn’t feel dated at all as rendered by Oris here. The tips of the pointer-date hands have been colored to compliment the dials as well, appearing a shade darker to stand out from the dial itself. Of course, the other way to quickly identify the Caliber 403 model is to simply turn it over to see the movement displayed through an exhibition back. 

Moving to the Oris Caliber 754 (Sellita-based) references, we find three new dials that venture into more vibrant territory, beginning with the striking yellow dial that Oris calls, well, yellow. This is a striking color from Oris that feels just as bright in person as it does in these photos. There’s a slight mustard quality to it, but not in a bad way. It’s got character. 

The other two dials are a bit more straightforward, though still interesting, with lilac and blue. Lilac may look like navy at a glance, but there’s a soft purple folded in that makes it worth a second look. Likewise, the blue is creamy and bright, with a small hint of green coming through without taking it into turquoise territory. While these watches use a centrally mounted seconds hand, the pointer hand does get a tip that is complimentary to the dial color, only this time they skew a shade lighter. 

Each of the dials here are matte textured, and they all share a new feature for Oris, which is a set of luminous, applied hour numerals. Oris claims they are lume-filled, but they appear as complete lume blocks sitting up off the dial. This execution brings a level of depth and personality to the dial that the Big Crown Pointer Date hasn’t shown in the past. The new dials are easily my favorite feature of the new collection from Oris this year, and while they are each distinctive in their own way, the original charm of the design remains strong. 

The new Big Crown Pointer Date collection uses steel 40mm cases that have been slightly redesigned and refined. The Caliber 403 model measures 12.3mm in thickness, while the Sellita-equipped examples measure 12mm in thickness. They are fitted to a newly designed three-link bracelet, while the Caliber 403-equipped models are also offered on a brown Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather strap. 

The three Big Crown Pointer Date watches with Sellita based movements are priced at $2,300, while the Caliber 403 editions are priced from $4,100 on a leather strap, and $4,300 on a steel bracelet.