Breitling Releases Its Smallest Chronomat Yet In 28mm

When I think of Breitling, just about the last thing that comes to mind is any adjective in the realm of "dainty." My immediate associations are with its penchant for cases daring to push far past the widely accepted Goldilocks zone and venture into 42mm and even into 48mm territory from time to time. I think of the brand’s historical ties to both the Aviation and Diving worlds, iconic lines like the Superocean and Navitimer, and, most recently, the NFL Chronomat. So, to say that last week’s news that Breitling dropped its smallest Chronomat yet — in a certifiably teeny 28mm sizing — came as a complete shock to the system is not an exaggeration. Maintaining the'80s-inspired aesthetic that's quintessential to the Chronomat line while leaning into the impressive simplification that's been a hallmark of the brand's new CEO Georges Kern's touch, the new Chronomat 28 packs in many attributes of the contemporary Breitling identity, working them into a new, micro-mini-sized package. 

Despite my initial surprise, Breitling's recent focus on drawing in more women consumers isn’t out of left field: across the industry at large, brands and watchmakers have a keen interest in grabbing the attention of female clients, a demographic whose purchasing power is only growing stronger. Back to Breitling specifically, the brand created some buzz earlier this year with its partnership with Victoria Beckham’s fashion brand VB, releasing a limited collection of 36mm Chronomat Automatics (though if you aren’t keen on the VB branding on the hands, you can still get this model in 36mm which was originally marketed at the “Hers” option for the Chronomat revamped in 2020).

Before I digress into further philosophizing, let’s get into the watches in question. Making its debut last week, the Chronomat 28 collection is made up of four distinct models: two stainless steel models, with either pink or pale blue mother-of-pearl dials and diamond indices; one stainless steel model with a black mother-of-pearl dial, diamond indices, and a diamond-set bezel; and finally, a two-tone steel and 18K red gold model with diamond-set indices and bezel. Each model measures (you guessed it) 28mm in diameter with a 34.6mm lug-to-lug and 8.46mm thickness. 

Originally released in 1984, Breitling’s Chronomat has been a staple in its catalog, though its aesthetic varies dramatically depending on the era. You might be surprised that this tiny piece is cut from the same cloth as the über-'90s model that can be seen on Jerry’s wrist throughout episodes of "Seinfeld," as well as its lack of chronograph subdials. Naming conventions in the watch world are without fail, always confusing. Despite the name Chronomat originally being a portmanteau for “Chronograph” and “Automatic,” neither of these distinctions necessarily apply to its modern collection. From what I can tell, the two true key ingredients of the Chronomat collection are the onion crown and the distinct Rouleaux bracelet with bullet-shaped links that are also ripe with '90s nostalgia.

In the case of the Chronomat 28, the aforementioned Rouleaux bracelet and onion crown are accounted for, and aligning with its sporty-chic aesthetic, this piece is water resistant up to 100 meters. As for the movement within, unlike other members of the extended Chronomat universe, the Chronomat 28 is powered by a quartz movement, as is typically the case with contemporary watches of this size. The quartz movement within is the Breitling 72, which isn’t just a run-of-the-mill quartz movement but is, in fact, a Superquartz movement that has achieved COSC chronometer certification. Additionally, it has an expected battery life of three to four years. 

While I appreciate Breitling’s attempt to appeal to more women, it would be remiss of me not to note that there feels something regressive about shrinking, blinging out, and throwing in a quartz movement to an existing line — the old default of making watches geared toward women — that feels a bit tired. That being said, I do personally prefer smaller watches, and have a bit of an obsession with the tiny divers that many brands produced throughout the late ‘80s and '90s as a post-Quartz-Crisis Hail Mary (for an example of a Breitling version of this, take a look at the Callistino). There is something so satisfying in the contrast between the sporty design ethos and the bite-sized proportions, and that same spirit is present in the Chronomat 28. I would love to see the brand expand this line with more neutral variations, with applied numerals, and dials sans-mother-of-pearl in favor of sleek black, white, and/or blue. Of the four variations, the pink and blue models are working the most for me, given their comparable simplicity. To end this article on a high note, I will refer you now to an example of a near-perfect unisex watch from the brand with the Chronomat Automatic 36mm. 

The Breitling Chronomat 28 is available now with pricing starting at $4,800 USD.