Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Extreme Sport

TAG Heuer gave its Carrera collection a hard reset in 2016, and the results of that move have created a far more diversified vision of the brand’s iconic chronograph. In an era defined by reissues and faithful reinterpretations of original designs, TAG Heuer went the other direction, carving out a modern vision for the Carrera that set a new foundation for the watch to build on. There have been some hits and some misses in the intervening years, but the Carrera has found its way to solid footing with the return of the 39mm "glassbox" case in recent years, which is undeniably modern and original while still clearly linked to the DNA of the original. But TAG Heuer’s vision of the modern Carrera doesn’t end there. This year, the brand is returning to the Extreme Sport concept of the Carrera, pushing the design to its boundaries in a very different way. 

I’ll put it out there straight away: this isn’t the Carrera for the purists out there. The Extreme Sport is more of a technological and conceptual showcase that takes the original racing and timing themes of the watch, and expresses them in an overtly modern manner. This isn’t a watch attempting to connect to the original design, but rather attempting to connect to the original idea, as if from scratch, in 2024. That means more "exotic" materials, a bold design that acknowledges the watch as part fashion accessory, and a view boasting a modern movement. We are long beyond the days of a mechanical timing device being relevant on the racetrack, and this watch almost embraces that fact, for better or worse.

The new Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport collection welcomes six new references to the stable, two of which are equipped with a tourbillon. The four base references embrace ceramic, gold, and titanium for the case and bezel, each making use of a new, openworked dial design across four distinct colorways. The new cases measure 44mm in diameter and 15.1mm in thickness. An integrated rubber strap matching the dial color provides a final statement as a watch dedicated to sport. This isn’t a watch looking to fly under the radar, and it’s best understood (and appreciated) with that fact in mind. This is a fun watch that makes a statement, and after spending some time with the Extreme Sport on the wrist, there are indeed some redeeming qualities to be found and enjoyed. 

That might be a different story as it relates to the dial, however. TAG Heuer has redesigned the dial plate with this generation of the Extreme Sport to allow for a greater level of legibility, and while it may have achieved that on some level, this remains far from a legible watch. Thick bridges with a mix of finishes and textures frame the subdials and offer a view to the baseplate of the movement, and to the date disk running directly underneath. There are small hour markers set into the chapter ring at the perimeter of the dial, but they don’t continue into or over the dial itself. There’s a lot going on here, and while it’s interesting to be sure, the thin pencil hands tend to get lost in the mix. 

That said, high-contrast legibility doesn’t seem to be the point here. This dial is an experience in and of itself, and is certainly quite dynamic as a result. It has plenty of depth to enjoy, and the textures draw the eye across the dial bridges in a chaotic but fun way. It’s not illegible, but it’s not a dial you’ll be able to read at a glance, and that feels like the point. It’s fun to look at and explore, and provides a visual punch that lends credence to the "Extreme" in the name. Like a neon tracksuit, I’m not sure how well this design will age, but it makes no apologies for the way it is. And as far as I understand, fashion trends are cyclical, so this will likely go in and out in phases.

If you’re a fan of references like the 2447 or the Valjoux 92-equipped Carrera 45, this is probably not the kind of dial you want to see bearing the name Carrera. However, this is a collection that’s never shied away from pushing its boundaries. It only takes a cursory look at the Carrera catalog to find references like the 110.573B or 371.253G that push the original concept in wholly new directions. In light of the broader context, the Extreme Sport doesn’t feel out of line at all. In fact, it could be seen as fleshing out the identity of the Carrera even further. Note that this is a watch that lives alongside a myriad of other executions of the Carrera, and when taken as a whole they reflect the original ethos of a sport-focused design meant to expand its original horizons.

The Extreme Sport uses TAG Heuer’s Caliber TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement. This is an upgrade from the Heuer 02, now featuring a bidirectional rotor, a longer warranty, and an 80-hour power reserve. This is a column-wheel chronograph, as you’ll see highlighted through the exhibition caseback, though I wouldn’t call the action of the pushers refined by any stretch. There is a hard click to start and stop the timing that could use some massaging from TAG Heuer, but overall this is an appealing unit at this price point. It’s not a classically beautiful movement, but it is interesting-looking, falling in line with the rest of the watch.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Extreme Sport is priced from $8,200, and goes up to $32,800 for the rose-gold case equipped with the HEUER02T tourbillon movement. As far as the base models are concerned, they offer a unique experience and a tight overall fit and finish that feels in line with other watches in this price range from brands at a similar stature. This is a watch all about the experience, and if you’re the type that wants to see brands pushing themselves forward rather than always looking backward, you might find a lot to like here. This is a comfortable watch with a high personality design, and it will surely set you apart in a crowded room of watch enthusiasts. Watches are supposed to be fun, and TAG Heuer has hit that nail on the head with the Extreme Sport.