Hands-On With The Rolex Land-Dweller
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Hands-On With The Rolex Land-Dweller

We got a sneak peek at the most talked-about watch on the planet. Find out everything you need to know here.

There is something fundamentally earth-shaking about massive shifts in the Rolex atmosphere. Mixed metaphors aside, just because we have seen Rolex develop and launch an entirely new collection quite recently (with the 1908, released just two years ago in 2023), it doesn’t make it normal. Before that it was the Sky-Dweller, and years before that there were variations on the Yacht-Master. Today is one of those milestone days, as we welcome a maybe-not-so-surprising, nonetheless impactful new launch: The Rolex Land-Dweller.

The Land-Dweller is the product of 18 new patents specific to this watch, as Rolex has developed an entirely new watch both inside and out. No, this is not a new complication, but it is a brand-new approach to timekeeping. It marks the first development of a new escapement system at this scale since the arrival of the Co-Axial escapement from Omega some twenty-five ago. In short this is big news.

In reality, there have been whispers about this watch for weeks now, whispers that turned into murmurs that turned into chatter, that turned into pre-release leak mayhem. Well, now we know the Land-Dweller is very real.

 

Teddy and I had the chance to see this watch up close and personal ahead of the show (you can find our full video hands-on review on YouTube now) and were also lucky enough to do it prior to a lot of the pre-release noise really reaching peak volume. That is to say, we were able to learn about the mechanical innovations inherent to this release while also having the time to form our own opinions about it.

I am a touch biased because the overall case and bracelet profile hearkens back to a style from Rolex that I have always loved: The Oysterquartz. But to go there would be to skip some steps. In 1969, Rolex, along with a consortium of some two dozen other watch brands developed the Beta 21 quartz movement which resulted in a model that debuted – at least in the modern context of the ‘60s and ‘70s – the brand’s integrated-bracelet format. Sure, there were other predecessors, but not in the way we know integrated watches today.

This was followed up by a watch that would eventually become the Oysterquartz, but started as an automatic: the Ref. 1630, which featured an angular case design and a unique bracelet type that was only seen in this reference and the latter Oysterquartz – Rolex’s first serially produced quartz watch. My father wore an Oysterquartz when he was younger and gave it to my older brother who wears it to this day, so, yeah, you can say I have a thing for this watch.

This helps us understand the general design universe in which the Land-Dweller sits. You will immediately recognize that angular case design which feeds directly into the bracelet. Only this time, we don’t have the old-school Oysterquartz bracelet styling of the past. Instead, Rolex has decided to reconstruct its famed Jubilee bracelet from the ground up for this watch. Newness is a theme you’ll pick up on a lot in regards to the Land-Dweller, as Rolex has not just made a new model, but built it from scratch.

Let’s start with the new Jubilee, which features a flat-link design that flows seamlessly from the case. In person, the vertical brushing is insanely cool and follows the contours of the angular drop-off from case to bracelet. On it you will find a polished caseline with exterior link chamfers and the polished interior links. This flat Jubilee has key differences from the normal fare. The outer links are broader, and by proxy the inner links narrower. The tops of the links are flat, and the center links are raised just above the outer links, a feat that is harder to achieve than you might think.

The bracelet tapers down to the crown clasp – which you might recognize from older generation Datejusts, and current Day-Dates. The only drawback of a crown clasp is the lack of micro-adjustment we have become accustomed to with systems like Easylink. But it doesn’t stop there. The bracelet attaches to the case via 10-component system with ceramic tubes that house the spring bar to reduce wear.

Sure, it’s odd to start by talking about the bracelet, but also it isn’t. The bracelet is one of the first things you notice about a watch when you see it on someone from a distance. Rolex has made its share of absolutely iconic bracelets over the years, so if the company went through the trouble to make a new one, I am going to talk about it.

In terms of case size, the Land-Dweller comes in two size flavors: 36mm and 40mm, aka the classics. This very much mirrors the sizing conventions of the Day-Date. Actually, the Land-Dweller is meant to occupy a very specific slot in the Rolex Classics (i.e. non-Professional) lineup: in between the Datejust and the Day-Date. Both wear incredibly well, though I am partial to the 36mm (obviously). That being said, the 40mm version was the only size I was able to experience in the steel model of the Land-Dweller. Well, to be more specific, it is a Rolesor model due to the inclusion of a white- gold bezel against the steel case and bracelet.

Speaking of bezels, this is the iconic fluted bezel, with a twist. The classic fluted bezel found on the Day-Date has 72 flutes; the 1908 has 180 flutes. The Land-Dweller has a redesigned set of 60 flutes, which really play beautifully with the light, and it pairs well with the chapter ring, which is sloped.

In both sizes, the watch measures 9.6mm in case height, but the lug-to-lug changes depending on 36 or 40mm sizing. The former measures in at 43.5mm while the larger 40mm has a lug-to-lug of 46.5mm. In terms of real-world perception, both models feel remarkably thin for what they are.

The Land-Dweller debuts today in three metals: Rolesor, Everose, and Platinum. The Rolesor and Everose have white dials, and the Platinum is released in a sunray Ice blue typical of Rolex platinum fare. But the dial fun doesn’t end there. Look closely and you’ll notice a very distinctive honeycomb pattern. In fact, Rolex calls this a honeycomb, but also a flute-patterned dial. This motif is also seen in the counterweight on the central seconds hand (more on hands later). Beyond the honeycomb, you will find fine vertical lines applied via a femtosecond laser. Yes, we have femtosecond.

The dials are not all the same however. There is variance depending on whether the watch features a diamond dial & bezel or not. This option is only found on the Everose and platinum variants and when diamonds are present, there are stick-shaped markers throughout. It’s when there aren’t diamonds that these watches really bring newness to the forefront by way of a new "6" and "9" marker set. Unlike those found on the Air- King and Explorer, the applied 6 and 9 numerals have an open design that reminds me of the open numerals on vintage Rolex date wheels. These markers are filled with Chromalight lume, as are the other markers. Which brings us to the next portion of newness. The markers have been redesigned, and if you look closely, you’ll notice that they are open on either end with exposed Chromalight lume. This exact cutting and exposure of the lume is one of the 18 patented components of the watch.

Speaking of those 18 patents, 16 of them are applied to the internal specs of this watch, i.e. the movement. That’s the real story with this watch. As amazing as all of the design efforts are on the outside, the future will look back upon the caliber 7135 inside the watch. To find a development anywhere close this one, we need to look back a decade to 2015 when Rolex unveiled the Chronergy escapement system which reworked the Swiss lever escapement. Today Rolex embarks on a new journey utilizing its version of a natural escapement. Meet the Dynapulse Escapement system. The Caliber 7135 represents Rolex’s first use of a 5Hz movement. Yes indeed, a Rolex high- beat. This is big news.

Knowing that Rolex has reworked many of its movements in recent years to up the power reserve while maintaining accuracy,  you might be wondering why the brand decided to dip its toes in higher frequency waters. Well, the short answer is because Rolex never does anything impulsively. This is a movement evolution a decade in the making. The Dynapulse is designed to be efficient. It uses silicon escapement components making it highly resistant to magnetism. It’s architecture is such that the components create a rolling motion rather than one that slides.

I really encourage you to watch our video as it includes detailed imagery getting to the core workings of the 7135. But in short (this is not going to be short), the going train takes the stored energy from the mainspring and then connects with a large wheel that Rolex calls the “Transmission Wheel.” The Transmission Wheel, instead of interacting directly with a pallet fork, is first met with two wheels know as the Sequential Distribution Wheels. Rolex has designed these with custom teeth. 

The energy from the Transmission Wheel is then fed to one of the distribution wheels via a raised pinion at the first Sequential Distribution Wheel's axis. Next, a component called the impulse rocker (with the help of the impulse jewel on the balance roller) enables the locking and unlocking of the two Sequential Distribution Wheels, thereby providing power to the oscillator. 

The balance wheel itself is made of brass, containing two microstella studs for finer adjustments. The hairspring is a familiar sight for some – as it is made of the brand’s proprietary Syloxi material – an abbreviated form of silicon and silicon oxide composite. This balance spring is also highly resistant to magnetic fields and shock, and offers stability amid temperature changes. Lastly, the balance staff is modified with ceramic construction to work with redesigned Paraflex shock absorbers in what Rolex is calling a double cone internal structure. These are positioned at both ends of the balance staff and enable the precise repositioning of the staff against shocks.

The result is a movement that delivers a 30% increase in efficiency compared to prior 3230 calibers. But it also brings Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer accuracy to a 5Hz frequency, remaining accurate to -2 / +2 seconds per day. And it does it all while still managing to maintain 66 hours of power reserve. If the 7135 looks familiar to you, that’s because it is derived from the 71 series used in the 1908. Here we see very good decoration including the Rolex Cotes de Genève across the bridges, machined anglage edges, and a solid gold rotor. And while efficiency and accuracy were brought over in this new caliber, it also comes in 2mm thinner than the 3230 series.

Yes, that was a log of information to get through in order to address the most remarkable innovation found in the new Land-Dweller but it’s important because there a few situations where we sit at the frontier of future updates on the part of Rolex. Just looking at the escapement architecture, you understand that the years of R&D were more than just thinking about a way to introduce a 5Hz caliber with a natural escapement, but rather to do so in the most Rolex way possible… and then patent it.

I imagine the design might be divisive for some, but aren’t so many Rolex releases these days? History has taught us that the more divisive the watch, the greater potential for long term impact. Even if the integrated, Oysterquartz-esque design isn’t necessarily for you, you cannot deny the fact that Rolex is penning a new chapter in its movement manufacturing story. I let the images speak from themselves but you need only look through the – shock! –  exhibition caseback to see this next phase (oh, and by the way, this is the first Rolex in steel to have an exhibition caseback, which is kind of a big deal). 

The Land-Dweller joins a host of current and former dwellers, Sea, Sky, and Space. Let’s let the shock and awe wear off before we pass judgment. I for one, think this is a tremendously cool watch and cannot wait to see it evolve in the years to come. Now, if you haven’t already, go watch the video. And be sure to follow along with us on Instagram as we continue to cover everything here at Watches and Wonders 2025. 

2 Comments

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Andy V.

Totally unrelated to the watch: it would be cool if you linked out to more resources and posts. As someone who’s relatively new to the history of watchmaking, being able to dig into the references you make would be great. Thanks

SC
Supes C.

It’s impossible to complain about a single thing, even if the styling is not to your taste. It’s fantastic to see Rolex not only use the Natural Escapement but actually improve on it with high-tech gear design and materials. I’m not a fan of Omega’s coaxial escapement because I feel I’m being gaslit about it – it claims to be more efficient and yet none of the coaxial movements can achieve greater than 55 hours power reserve without cheating by adding a new barrel, they had to reduce the beat-rate and they are all thick (all implying a real loss in efficiency). But I’m not a Luddite – Rolex’s design is truly revolutionary making the movement thinner, faster beat and with >60 hour power reserve so truly achieving amazing specs to match its design promises – I’m all in on real innovations with actually improved specs.

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