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Sometimes it can seem like Watches & Wonders is exclusively a high-end, big-ticket, non-accessible (I think we’ve made the point, right?) event with no truly affordable releases. And while it’s true that the show is dominated by pricier brands, there were some truly excellent and reasonably priced pieces that were released this year at the biggest trade show in the industry. So, after asking our editorial team to pick their overall favorite watches from the show, we thought it would be fun to have a few narrowed down categories, starting with watches priced under $5,000. Frankly, there was no shortage of great options and there’s even an overlap here with an overall show favorite from our last Editors’ Picks list.
I already gave my answer to this question in our previous round-up of our Top watches from Watches & Wonders 2025. And because I’ve been told (repeatedly) that I can’t pick the Nomos Club Sport Worldtimer for every Editors’ Pick article we have planned, I am going with my second-favorite watch inside of $5,000: the Black Bay Pro with Opaline dial from Tudor.
This is a watch that feels like it has already existed, and I consider that a good thing. Of course there are obvious references from which this watch is pulling, but that’s not the point. I think the Polar Black Bay Pro (which I covered at launch here) is what the Black Bay Pro should have been all along. I usually reach for a black dial almost exclusively on any watch, but this is a white-dial execution that I prefer to its sibling. This is a modern execution with historical reference that doesn’t rely on fake patina or faded markers to make its point. The Opaline is bright white, but not harsh. The black-rimmed hour markers fit right in and the yellow/orange 24 hour hand is the perfect retro touch.
The Polar BB Pro represents a unique way to get into the Tudor lineup that isn’t the usual Black Bay flavor (read: dive watch). With Tudor’s incremental steps up in chronometry and impressive fit and finish, there’s a lot of value to be had in a capable sports watch that stands out in a catalog full of heavy hitters.
I hope you’ll forgive me for going a touch over budget here by $600, but I think we can fuss the rules a bit in the case of Grand Seiko’s SBGW323 “Kiri.” In all honesty, I’m not choosing this piece because it introduced something revolutionary for the brand, but for more personal, emotional reasons. I’ve always admired Grand Seiko and have loved seeing its watches on other people, but this was the first watch from the brand that I really fell in love with on my wrist. The 36.5mm size felt right, and the pale lavender dial, and the way the textural elements play in the light, is just downright dreamy. I have to give the Kiri its flowers for ushering me, willingly, into the cult of Grand Seiko.
While it is no longer dominated almost exclusively by the highest of high-horology watchmakers — as it was back in its SIHH days, during which the maisons of the Richemont Group made up the lion’s share of exhibitors — Watches & Wonders Geneva is still a show where truly outstanding finds under $5,000 are somewhat rare. Before the event expanded to its post-Covid parameters, luring more value-oriented yet enthusiast-friendly watch brands like Tudor, Nomos, Oris, and Raymond Weil, it was usually just Baume & Mercier, by virtue of its ownership by Richemont, that even attempted to play in that budget-friendly space. The Geneva event has changed, but fortunately, Baume & Mercier has not — at least not in its commitment to offer fine watchmaking at high value. And fittingly, it is the brand’s relaunch of its elegant Clifton collection that takes my top spot on this particular list.
As I delve into in more detail here, the Clifton takes its cues from Baume & Mercier’s fondly remembered dress watches of the 1950s and ‘60s, and the latest generation takes the vintage charm to a new level while retaining much of the character established at its launch in 2013. The case is thinner, the sapphire crystal is now domed, the date on the dial has been moved from 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock for a more symmetrical aesthetic, the hour markers are longer, and the 12 o’clock position is marked by an applied Arabic numeral as it was in the earliest Clifton models. Best of all, the movement inside is still the brand’s Baumatic caliber, which boasts a five-day power reserve and a host of decorations rarely found at this price point. (And yes, you can see them through the caseback.) The standout is the salmon-dialed, steel-cased Ref. M0A10778, which comes with two interchangeable leather straps: that’s two “looks” for the very approachable price of $3,450.
But at the risk of burying the lede, the Big Story here is the shockingly non-tool watch colorway, a sensuous, deep, rock ‘n’ roll red that Tudor bills as burgundy. A red dive watch makes no sense from a practical standpoint, and I gotta admit, that’s kinda why I love it. Is it the most versatile colorway? Definitely not. But believe it or not, there is historical precedent at play here. Tudor built a one-off prototype Sub back in the ‘90s that never saw production, and it was a stunner. In fact, the colorway influenced the bezel of the OG Black Bay from 2012, but this time around, there’s no retro gilt detailing to diminish the impact of the bold, uncompromising declaration that says (with apologies to Spinal Tap), “none more red.” The burgundy aluminum bezel insert would be startling enough on its own, but the depth and dazzle of the sunburst dial is a slab of glam-rock spectacle that T. Rex would be proud to flaunt. This is no ordinary tool watch: the new BB58 Burgundy is a statement, and it’s ready to rock.
There was no shortage of great releases under $5,000 this year at Watches & Wonders, all of which showcase highly dynamic personalities with big colors. One brand that seems to consistently nail this category is, of course, Oris, and this year was no different with the release of a new Big Crown Pointer Date collection. This is an historic design that Oris has managed to modernize without compromising its core DNA. That modern identity boasts some seriously impressive dial colors this year, and none more so than the red and green examples that house the brand’s own Caliber 403. They are subtle, yet full of intrigue, and they take to the old-school design naturally.
In addition to the Caliber 403-equipped references, Oris also released a trio containing its Sellita-based movement, and the colors are just as enticing on those. This creates a little something for everyone, with each of the watches coming in well under the $5,000 mark. My favorite small details on these watches are the applied numeral hour markers, which bring a level of dimension to the dial, taking it that much further into modern territory. I’m not typically a "yellow watch" kinda guy, but for my money, this yellow hits a sweet spot. If you want to learn more, you can read this release article.
It's the world's thinnest automatic world timer, it is imbued with all of the Nomos design attributes we have come to know and love, and it is released in a bevy of colors that speak to the retro-ist (read, Wes Anderson fanatic) in me. I am a huge fan of this release from Nomos because it also speaks to the democratization of complications at scale. At just under $5,000, and with such a fun look and feel, this is the sort of watch that allows a broader swath of enthusiasts to get in on the ground floor of true independent watchmaking. My personal favorite color is the yellow-dial "Dune" limited edition because it evokes a real "Asteroid City" look that speaks to me. When I saw this at W&W, I was – like many – taken with this watch on a superficial level. But when you interact with the pusher and feel the actuation as the hour marker and city wheel move, you understand that this watch is the real deal.
The classic 1980’s throwback TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch came right in time for the brand’s new Formula 1 racing sponsorship. After last year’s batch of limited editions with Kith, we finally saw the release of the new standard-production Formula 1 watch and it came with an interesting twist. Yes, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph arrived in a 38mm case (bumped up from the original’s 35mm) and in an expansive nine varieties — three of which are standard production, the other six being limited editions — done in either stainless steel or TH-Polylight. And, of course, there’s the TH50-00 solar-powered movement which can charge for a full day in two minutes, and for 10 months after about two days, with a whopping 15-year battery life. These watches (which you can learn more about here) are priced at $1,800 on a strap and $1,900 on a bracelet. Sure, these are pricier than what some people anticipated, but I think the solar-powered capability more than justifies the premium.
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