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The continuing white-hot popularity of the “MoonSwatch” models — a collaborative project between mass-market Swatch and luxury-market Omega — has likely sparked the interest of a whole new generation of young watch enthusiasts, not only in the iconic Speedmaster Professional but in the Omega brand overall. If you’re among the cohort that just might be ready to own an honest-to-goodness Omega rather than a Swatch-made replica (albeit a really cool one), the good news is that getting in on the ground floor of one of the world’s most collectible watch brands is not as high as one might expect — at least considering the accolades it receives from knowledgeable and well-heeled watch connoisseurs. In this latest installment of our “Price of Admission” series, we seek out the most attainable, entry-level pieces in every Omega collection.
The contemporary Constellation family traces its design lineage to two distinctly different vintage ancestors — the cult-classic original model from the 1950s (which introduced the iconoclastic “pie pan” dial) and the influential revamp in the 1980s (which contributed the engraved, scalloped bezel and parallel “claws” on the case sides). The Constellation, which falls somewhere between everyday dress watch and retro conversation piece, is available in several sizes and with several different movements: a 36mm steel model on a bracelet, with the quartz Caliber 4564, can be yours for just $3,000. The 41mm Constellation Gents models, introduced in 2020, are the most attainable models with automatic movements. In steel on a rubber strap, and powered by the Master Chronometer Caliber 8900, the entry-level Constellation Gent carries an MSRP of $6,400, which gets you a handsome, silk-embossed-texture dial, an engraved steel bezel, and a transparent caseback. Upgrading to a ceramic bezel will raise the price to $7,100, and adding a steel bracelet to that ensemble ticks it up to $7,300.
Omega introduced the De Ville initially as part of the Seamaster line in 1960, and by 1967 had spun it off as its own collection, characterized by its more streamlined design and elegant character. In 1999, a De Ville became the first Omega watch equipped with a co-axial movement and in 2007 the De Ville Hour Vision model ushered in a new era of in-house calibers for Omega, showcasing the new automatic Caliber 8500. The modern-day De Ville family encompasses models for both men and ladies; the most entry-level prices come on the ladies’ De Ville Prestige models in steel with quartz movements: a 24.4mm model and a slightly larger 27.4mm piece, both with mother-of-pearl dials, come in at $2,900 on a bracelet. The same De Ville Prestige in a 30mm stainless steel case, powered by the quartz Caliber 4061, is priced just a bit higher, at an even $3,000.
The most affordable male-targeted version of the De Ville Prestige is this reference in steel, with a blue sunburst dial hosting applied Roman numerals at the 10-minute marks and cabochons for the remaining hour indexes. A set of golden feuille hands tell the time while a date is displayed at 6 o’clock. The watch comes on a blue alligator leather strap and houses the automatic Caliber 2500, based on the ETA 2892-A2, which is COSC-certified but not a member of Omega’s growing family of Master Chronometer movements. On the strap, the watch costs $3,600; on a steel bracelet, it will run you an additional $300 for a total of $3,900. Occupying the middle ground at $3,750 are strap-mounted versions of the same watch with a different date arrangement (at 3 o’clock) and a slightly different set of Roman numeral hour markers.
The Omega Speedmaster is not only the first watch on the moon; it’s also often the first “serious watch” in a budding connoisseur’s collection, and the standard “Moonwatch” reference on a bracelet retails new for $6,600, making it not exactly a bargain, per se, but certainly one of the most accessible “icon” watches on the current market. Best of all for traditionalists, the contemporary version of the watch is still more or less identical to the one that Buzz Aldrin rocked on the Apollo 11 mission more than 50 years ago, with a 42mm steel case, a hesalite crystal over the tricompax dial, luminous hands and hour markers, and the trendsetting tachymeter-scale bezel that speaks to the Speedy’s origins as a watch for auto racing. It’s even equipped with a modern version of the hand-wound movement that powered the original, Omega Caliber 1861, with a 3Hz frequency and a 48-hour power reserve. With this reference, Omega takes the adage “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” to heart. The ground-floor price is for the version on a nylon strap; you can upgrade to a steel bracelet for $7,000, and if you ante up to $7,600 (strap) or $8,000 (bracelet), you can get the model with an open caseback with a view of that historic caliber.
If you’re looking for something less, shall we say, predictable as your first Speedmaster, and you have a few more bucks to put toward it, look toward the Heritage subfamily, which includes the cult-classic “First Omega in Space” edition. This is a modern re-issue of the watch worn by astronaut Wally Schirra when he orbited the Earth in the 1962 “Sigma 7” mission — several years before the Speedmaster became the official NASA watch and went to the moon. Omega resurrected the “FOIS” model in 2016, staying faithful to its 39.7mm dimensions (more modest than those of the Moonwatch), its straight lugs with thin bevels, lack of crown guards, and its use of the relief-engraved seahorse emblem on the caseback. The Alpha-shaped hands and applied Omega logo at 12 o’clock are also features drawn from pre-1969 Speedmasters. The manually wound Caliber 1861 beats inside, as in the current-production Moonwatch, representing the most up-to-date evolution of the Lemania-based Caliber 321 that powered the vintage models. The brown leather strap with contrast stitching completes the package, which will run $7,500 (on a bracelet, $7,900).
Are we working with a slightly tighter budget, and/or a smaller wrist size? Consider the models in the Speedmaster 38 sub-family, which joined the OG 42mm models in 2017. While many of these “Mini Moonwatches” are designed with ladies in mind (especially the models set with precious stones), many others are very appealing to gents as well in this era of increasingly modest case dimensions. The slightly downsized models, which start at $5,200 in steel on a calf leather strap, feature the same curving lugs, pump-style chronograph pushers, and tachymeter-scale bezel ring (here in aluminum) as the 42mm originals, but their subtle differences include the oval-bordered subdials for chronograph minutes and hours and running seconds as well as a circular window at 6 o’clock for the date. Driving all these functions, behind the solid caseback adorned with a seahorse medallion, is Omega’s self-winding co-axial Caliber 3300, based on the ETA-built Longines L688.2 and offering a 52-hour power reserve.
Omega launched the first Seamaster in 1948; that watch wasn’t really a “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense — the category didn’t really exist yet — but was instead marketed as a watch for “town, sea, and country,” a dress watch for gentlemen that happened to also be waterproof. In 1957 came the first “Professional” Seamaster, a full-fledged divers’ tool watch depth-rated to 200 meters, and other variations followed in the decades hence, helping to grow the Seamaster line into the multifaceted family it is today.
Serving as a dressier and more understated sibling to the sporty Diver models — and to some extent harkening back to the original 1948 Seamaster — the Seamaster Aqua Terra eschews the rotating divers’ bezel and other tool-watch accouterments for a more streamlined style. The dials are characterized by simple wedge-shaped hour markers inspired by the silhouette of a sailboat, a triangular hour hand paired with an arrow-tipped minute hand, and — as of the most recent revamp of the collection in 2017 — a textured line pattern on the dial that echoes the teakwood deck of a boat. If we bypass the tiny 28mm iterations (which start at $3,300 and offer diamond markers on some dials), the entry-level Aqua Terra for gents is a 41mm model in stainless steel, on a leather strap, outfitted with the Omega Master Chronometer Caliber 8900, for $5,900. Somewhat perplexingly, swapping out a leather strap for a rubber one adds $100 to this price, and a smaller, 38mm version of that same watch also retails for $6,000.
The Seamaster Diver 300M series made its debut in 1993 and shortly thereafter achieved cinematic glory as the go-to watch of superspy James Bond. Now available in dozens of colorways and executions, this stylish tool watch can be had for $5,600 in a stainless steel case on a sporty rubber strap. The case’s unidirectional bezel has a scalloped edge for easy gripping and a ceramic insert with a white enamel scale to set dive times; its 300-meter water resistance is ensured by a screw-down crown and enhanced with a helium release valve. The dial, here in bright green ceramic, hosts a laser-engraved wave pattern and skeletonized hands. Despite the model’s extreme water resistance, Omega has managed to install a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a view of the automatic, co-axial Caliber 8800. On a steel bracelet, the watch carries an MSRP of $5,900, still a bit shy (before taxes) of the $6,000 mark.
If bold design and deep-diving robustness is your main criteria (along with price), consider the Seamaster Planet Ocean series, launched in 2005. In contrast to the more genteel Aqua Terra, the Planet Ocean models were positioned from the start as modern dive watches that embraced both sporty utility and luxury. Drawing some of its influences from a 1960s Seamaster model, the Planet Ocean is also distinguished from the 300M Diver models in several respects: a coin-edged, unidirectional bezel with an aluminum or ceramic insert, a matte black dial with Arabic numerals at 12, 6, and 9 and arrowhead hour and minute hands, a helium-release valve — used in compression diving — at 10 o’clock, and, most significantly from a diving standpoint, a water resistance of 600 meters, double the rating of the Seamaster Diver. The base model in steel, which measures 43.5mm, larger than the 42mm of the Diver, costs $6,700 on a leather or nylon NATO strap, and $7,100 on a steel bracelet. Despite the impressively high depth rating, you get a sapphire exhibition caseback that shows off the Master Chronometer Caliber 8900 inside.
Finally, like the Speedmaster collection, the Seamaster also offers “heritage” models that hearken back to some of the family’s earliest designs. The simply named Seamaster 300 is a throwback to the 1957 original, one of the watch industry’s most iconic and influential dive watches. It differs from its predecessor in subtle but substantial regards, including its 300-meter water resistance (up from 200), its unidirectional turning dive-scale bezel (more useful for diving than the earlier model’s bidirectional design), and its chronometer-rated movement, Caliber 8912. The classic Broad Arrow handset, lollipop seconds hand, triangular hour markers, vintage fonts, and aluminum bezel lend the Seamaster 300 a retro charm that stands out from the rest of the Seamaster series; a 41mm stainless steel model on a leather strap comes in at $6,700. On a bracelet as pictured, it’s $7,100.
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3 Comments
I didn’t appreciate the Speedmaster until I was walking by a Watches of Switzerland store in Manhattan and just decided to take a peak and try one on. Never seen it in person. It looked absolutely fantastic when I put it on my wrist. It was love at first sight. As a jewelry maker once said to me: sometimes, a piece just speaks to you. The Omega Speedmaster certainly does that.
I also dig the Seamaster’s incredibly sophisticated design. It looks so simple until you look at all the little details. So intriguing, you have to look.
Omega speaks to me. My feeling is that they are designed by people who truly love watches with maybe a nostalgic feeling for them as well. Elegant pieces.
The ‘Moonwatch’ Speedmaster is the most iconic Omega, but the Seamaster collection with its Diver 300 (among others…) is the most accomplished and versatile one.
One small question though for Teddy B, or a reader: why does movement 8900 fit in the Aqua Terra (41 mm case) but not in the Diver 300 (42 mm case)? Other way around, why is the case of the Diver 300 ‘so big’, when the same 8800 movement fits in the Planet Ocean 39,5 mm ? Thanks !
The more I see that green 300M the more I want it.